What Is Peg-23 Oleate?
Peg-23 Oleate is a man-made ingredient created by joining polyethylene glycol with oleic acid, a fatty acid most often taken from vegetable oils like olive or sunflower. The number 23 tells us that about 23 units of ethylene oxide are linked to each oleic acid molecule, giving the final material both water-loving and oil-loving parts. This balance is what lets it mix oil and water in a smooth, stable way.
The idea of binding fatty acids to polyethylene glycol began taking off in the 1960s when makers of soaps and lotions wanted gentler, more versatile surfactants. Over time, Peg-23 Oleate proved useful because it cleaned well without stripping skin and also helped keep formulas from separating.
Production starts with plant-derived oleic acid, which is reacted with ethylene oxide under controlled heat and pressure. After purification the result is a clear to pale yellow liquid or soft paste that blends easily into water or oil phases during manufacturing.
You will usually spot Peg-23 Oleate in facial cleansers, micellar waters, body washes, exfoliating scrubs, makeup removers, bath oils, light creams and some hair care products where mild cleansing or stable emulsions are needed.
Peg-23 Oleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In everyday products Peg-23 Oleate serves two main jobs that boost both performance and feel:
- Cleansing – Acts as a gentle surfactant that lifts away dirt, makeup and excess oil then rinses off without leaving skin tight or squeaky
- Emulsifying – Helps water and oil mix, keeping creams, lotions or washes uniform so every pump or scoop delivers the same texture and benefits
Who Can Use Peg-23 Oleate
Peg-23 Oleate is generally well tolerated by most skin types, including normal, oily, combination and even sensitive skin because it cleans without harsh stripping and helps formulas stay mild. Very dry or compromised skin may still need richer moisturisers alongside it since the ingredient itself is more of a helper than a hydrator.
The oleic acid used comes from plant oils and the polyethylene glycol part is synthetic so there are no animal-derived materials. That makes Peg-23 Oleate suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
Pregnant or breastfeeding women are not known to face special risks when using products that contain this ingredient. It is considered low in skin penetration and not on any major “avoid while pregnant” lists. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new skincare just to be safe.
Peg-23 Oleate does not make skin more prone to sun sensitivity so there is no extra need for sun-care steps beyond regular daily SPF.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Peg-23 Oleate differ from person to person. The points below cover possible side effects even though most people will not run into them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild skin irritation – Rare tingling or redness, more likely if skin is already damaged or very sensitive
- Allergic contact dermatitis – Extremely uncommon allergy leading to itching, rash or swelling
- Eye stinging – If a cleanser with Peg-23 Oleate gets into the eyes it can cause temporary discomfort
- Increased dryness – In a formula that is not balanced with moisturisers some users may feel tightness after rinsing
If you experience any discomfort stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Peg-23 Oleate has a very low tendency to clog pores because the polyethylene glycol part keeps the molecule water friendly, helps it rinse away easily and reduces the heavy feel normally linked to plain oleic acid. While oleic acid on its own can be mildly comedogenic, its pegylated form is far less likely to linger on skin or build up in follicles. For this reason it is generally considered safe for people who are prone to acne or breakouts, particularly when used in rinse-off products like cleansers. Leave-on formulas may still pose a slight risk for extremely reactive skin but overall the ingredient remains low on the pore-clogging scale.
Summary
Peg-23 Oleate acts mainly as a gentle cleanser and an emulsifier, lifting away oil and debris while keeping water and oil phases blended so products stay uniform from the first pump to the last. Its amphiphilic structure, created by attaching about 23 ethylene oxide units to oleic acid, gives it the right balance to bond with both oil and water, which is why it washes off cleanly yet stabilises creams and liquids.
The ingredient is not a superstar buzzword but it shows up in a fair number of mild facial cleansers, body washes and micellar waters because formulators trust its dependable performance without harshness. Safety data and decades of use point to a low irritation profile, making it a reliable choice for most skin types. As with any new skincare, give products containing Peg-23 Oleate a quick patch test first to make sure your skin agrees with it.