Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate?

Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate comes from castor oil, the thick vegetable oil pressed from the seeds of the Ricinus communis plant. To turn the raw oil into a beauty friendly helper, manufacturers first hydrogenate it, which makes the oil more stable and solid. Next they attach about 40 units of ethylene oxide, a step called ethoxylation, to give the molecule a water loving side. Finally they react the partly water soluble oil with isostearic acid, creating a single ester that balances both oil and water attraction. The result is a creamy wax-like ingredient that mixes smoothly into modern formulas.

Castor oil itself has been used in skin and hair care for centuries, but its heavy texture limited its use. In the mid-20th century chemists learned to tweak the oil with hydrogenation and ethoxylation so it could blend into lotions and cleansers without feeling greasy. Adding the isostearate twist gave even better skin feel, which helped this ingredient gain popularity in everything from spa-style masks to daily moisturizers.

Today you will spot Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate in facial cleansers, micellar waters, makeup removers, serums, anti aging creams, sunscreens, hair conditioners, body lotions, spray fragrances and wash-off masks. Its ability to tie oil and water together and slightly thicken a formula makes it popular in products that need to stay smooth, stable and pleasant on the skin.

Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasker supports both the texture and stability of countless beauty products

  • Emulsifying – Helps oil and water mix into a uniform blend so creams and lotions stay smooth without separating. This keeps active ingredients evenly dispersed and improves product feel during application
  • Viscosity controlling – Gives formulas a thicker, creamier consistency that feels rich on the skin yet still spreads easily. This control helps a product stay put on the shelf and in your hand without being runny

Who Can Use Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate

This ingredient is gentle enough for most skin types. Dry and normal skin often enjoy the slightly richer feel it gives creams while oily and combination skin usually tolerate it because it is lightweight once blended into a formula. Sensitive skin can also use it since it has a low record of irritation however anyone with a known castor oil allergy should avoid it.

Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate is made from plant-derived castor oil and laboratory reagents so it contains no animal material. That makes it acceptable for vegans and vegetarians as long as the finished product is also cruelty free.

Current ingredient safety reviews show no specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the compound is used in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a doctor before adding a new product just to be safe.

The ingredient does not increase sun sensitivity and it has no known interactions with common skin actives such as retinol or vitamin C.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can differ from one person to the next. The effects listed below are possible but uncommon when products are manufactured and used as directed.

  • Mild skin irritation – rare redness or stinging especially on already compromised skin
  • Contact dermatitis – very uncommon allergic rash in individuals sensitive to castor derivatives or polyethylene glycols
  • Eye irritation – temporary burning or watering if a product containing the ingredient gets into the eyes

If you notice itching swelling or any ongoing discomfort stop use and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5

Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate is partly water soluble thanks to its PEG chains so it tends to rinse off or disperse rather than settle in pores. This keeps its clogging potential low. It does retain a small fatty portion from castor oil which is why the rating is not a perfect zero but the overall risk remains minimal.

Most people prone to acne can use products containing this ingredient without a noticeable increase in breakouts.

Its comedogenic impact is lowest in cleansers and light lotions and slightly higher in heavy balms that stay on the skin for long periods.

Summary

Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate acts as an emulsifier and viscosity controller that pulls oil and water together into a smooth stable blend while giving formulas a creamy body. This dual action keeps lotions from separating helps cleansers lift away makeup and lends conditioners a silky glide.

It is a workhorse rather than a spotlight ingredient quietly powering a wide range of products across price points because formulators value its reliability and skin friendly feel.

Safety data show a very low chance of irritation or allergy making it suitable for nearly all skin types. Still it is smart to patch test any new product containing this ingredient to ensure your skin stays comfortable.

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