What Is Peg-40 Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate?
Peg-40 Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate is a mouthful of a name but its job is simple. It starts with dimer dilinoleic acid, a fatty acid that comes from plant oils like soybean or safflower. Chemists add hydrogen to make the oil more stable then link it to polyethylene glycol, or PEG, so it can mix easily with water. The “40” tells us roughly how many little PEG units are attached, giving the ingredient its water loving side.
This blend of oil friendly and water friendly parts caught the eye of formulators in the late 1990s when brands were looking for milder ways to clean skin without the squeaky tight feel older surfactants caused. By balancing oil and water Peg-40 Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate quickly found a home in a range of rinse off and leave on products.
Manufacturing begins with natural vegetable oil. The oil is first reacted to form dimer dilinoleic acid. Hydrogenation follows to boost shelf life and reduce scent. Finally the acid is combined with ethylene oxide units under controlled heat and pressure until the target average of 40 units is reached. The result is a creamy wax or thick liquid that blends smoothly into cosmetic bases.
You will most often spot this ingredient in facial cleansers, micellar waters, makeup removers, creamy body washes, lightweight moisturizers and cleansing balms. It can also appear in masks and exfoliating scrubs where even dispersion of oils and actives matters.
Peg-40 Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasker helps products feel pleasant on the skin and work the way they should.
- Cleansing: Its dual love of oil and water lifts makeup, sunscreen and daily grime so they rinse away without harsh rubbing
- Emulsifying: Keeps oil based and water based ingredients evenly mixed which prevents separation, improves texture and helps active ingredients spread where they need to go
Who Can Use Peg-40 Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate
Thanks to its balanced oil and water loving profile this ingredient suits most skin types including normal, dry, combination, oily and sensitive skin. It cleanses without stripping and has a low tendency to clog pores so even acne prone users generally tolerate it. People with extremely reactive or eczema compromised skin may still prefer to introduce it slowly since any surfactant can cause issues when the barrier is weak.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate is produced from vegetable oils and petroleum free ethylene oxide so it contains no animal derived material. Formulations using it can therefore be vegan and vegetarian friendly provided the rest of the ingredient list also avoids animal sources.
The compound is not known to penetrate deeply or accumulate which is why it is considered low risk during pregnancy or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should have a doctor review their skincare routine before use just to be safe.
The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no reported impact on the effectiveness of sunscreens or light-based treatments. It also plays well with common actives like vitamin C, niacinamide and retinoids because it is chemically stable in a wide pH range.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Peg-40 Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate differ from one person to another. The following list covers potential side effects but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly by the product manufacturer.
- Mild stinging or redness, especially on freshly exfoliated or compromised skin
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to polyethylene glycol derivatives
- Transient eye irritation if the product accidentally enters the eyes
- Follicular congestion or small surface bumps in very oil rich formulations
- Excessive dryness if used in high concentrations without balancing emollients
If any discomfort, rash or persistent irritation occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Although Peg-40 Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate begins life as an oil derived fatty acid the heavy hydrogenation and addition of around forty PEG units make the final molecule largely water dispersible. This high level of ethoxylation helps it rinse clean without leaving an oily film that could block pores. Laboratory assays and consumer use reports rarely link it to blackheads or whiteheads which is why it earns a low rating of 1
Its low film-forming tendency means most acne prone individuals can use products containing this surfactant-emulsifier without a spike in breakouts. Formulas that pair it with large amounts of heavier oils or waxes could still be an issue so the overall product composition matters more than the presence of this single ingredient
The rating assumes typical usage levels below 5 percent found in cleansers and micellar waters. At very high concentrations in leave-on products the likelihood of pore congestion could rise slightly, though such use is uncommon
Summary
Peg-40 Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate acts primarily as a cleansing and emulsifying agent. Its oil loving tail grabs onto makeup, sunscreen and excess sebum while its long chain of PEG units pulls those impurities into water so they rinse away easily. The same dual nature keeps water and oil phases blended giving lotions and washes a smooth stable texture
The ingredient is moderately popular in modern formulations, especially in gentle facial cleansers, micellar waters and lightweight cleansing balms. It is less common in heavy creams which explains why you may not spot it on every label
Safety reviews class it as low risk for irritation or toxicity when used at standard cosmetic levels and it carries only a minimal comedogenic score. As with any new skincare product it is wise to perform a small patch test first to make sure your skin agrees with the overall formula