Peg-50 Shea Butter: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Peg-50 Shea Butter?

Peg-50 Shea Butter is a plant-derived ingredient that starts with the rich lipid profile of traditional shea butter obtained from the kernels of the Butyrospermum parkii tree. To make it easier to mix with water, chemists react the butter with roughly fifty units of ethylene oxide per molecule. This process, called ethoxylation, grafts polyethylene glycol (PEG) chains onto the natural fatty acids, turning an otherwise oily material into one that can dissolve in water while still keeping the nurturing feel of shea.

Interest in shea butter surged during the 1980s when its skin-softening qualities became popular in lotions and balms. Formulators soon noticed that pure shea was hard to blend into lighter, water-based creams. By adding PEG chains they solved this challenge and opened the door for shea-based emulsifiers like Peg-50 Shea Butter, which entered mainstream cosmetic use in the 1990s.

Production begins with purified shea butter that is melted and placed in a reactor. Ethylene oxide gas is then introduced under controlled heat and pressure until the desired average of fifty ethoxy groups is attached. The finished ingredient is filtered, inspected for purity and shipped as a soft paste or waxy solid.

Because Peg-50 Shea Butter can link oil and water it shows up in moisturizers, facial creams, body lotions, hair conditioners, cleansing balms, rinse-off masks and many anti-aging formulations that aim for a smooth, non-greasy feel.

Peg-50 Shea Butter’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas Peg-50 Shea Butter excels at one main job and brings clear advantages because of it.

Emulsifying: Its PEG side chains pull in water while the shea lipid portion holds onto oils, so it binds the two phases into a stable emulsion. This lets brands create creams that stay uniform on the shelf, feel silky on the skin and rinse off cleanly without leaving a heavy film.

Who Can Use Peg-50 Shea Butter

Peg-50 Shea Butter is generally well tolerated by most skin types. Dry and normal complexions enjoy its softening effect while combination skin benefits from its light finish that does not feel greasy. People with very oily or acne-prone skin can still use it but may prefer lower concentrations because the shea lipid portion can occasionally feel too rich if overused.

The ingredient is derived from plant sources and processed synthetically, so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles with no animal-derived inputs involved.

Available safety data show no specific hazards for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in cosmetics, yet this is not medical advice. Anyone who is expecting or nursing should share their full skincare routine with a qualified healthcare professional to be certain every component meets their individual needs.

Peg-50 Shea Butter does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also fragrance-free and has no known interactions with common actives such as retinoids or vitamin C, making it easy to slot into most routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can differ from person to person. The effects listed below are only possibilities and, when Peg-50 Shea Butter is formulated and used correctly, most people will not experience them.

  • Mild redness or stinging
  • Temporary itching in highly sensitive skin
  • Clogged pores if applied in very heavy layers on oily or acne-prone skin
  • Contact allergy in individuals with a rare sensitivity to shea derivatives or PEG compounds

If irritation or any other unwanted reaction occurs discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 out of 5. The shea butter portion contains oleic and stearic acids that can sit on the skin and potentially block pores, yet the large PEG side chains raise its water compatibility and help it rinse away more easily than raw shea. As a result it is only mildly comedogenic. Most people prone to acne can usually tolerate it in low to moderate concentrations, but very oily or congestion-prone skin might prefer lighter alternatives. Formulation level, overall product texture and how thoroughly it is removed all influence its real-world pore-clogging potential.

Summary

Peg-50 Shea Butter is primarily an emulsifier that marries oil and water to create smooth stable creams, lotions and cleansers. It does this by pairing the water-loving PEG chains with the oil-loving fatty acids of shea so the two phases stay evenly blended while delivering a soft conditioned finish on skin or hair.

It is a niche ingredient rather than a blockbuster, popular with formulators who want the comforting feel of shea in lightweight water-based products without resorting to heavy waxes. You will spot it more often in mid to high-end moisturizers and rinse-off treatments than in mass market lines.

Current safety data show it is low risk for irritation and generally suitable for all skin types including during pregnancy and breastfeeding. As with any new cosmetic it is smart to perform a quick patch test to rule out individual sensitivities before fully integrating a product that contains Peg-50 Shea Butter into your routine.

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