Peg-8 Dioleate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Peg-8 Dioleate?

Peg-8 Dioleate is a synthetic ingredient made by attaching about eight units of ethylene oxide to dioleic acid, a fatty acid most often sourced from plant oils such as olive or sunflower. The result is a waxy liquid that blends the water-loving nature of polyethylene glycol (PEG) with the oil-loving nature of oleic acid, giving it a balanced structure that works well in skin care formulas. Chemists began experimenting with PEG-based esters in the late 1970s to help water and oil mix more smoothly in creams and lotions. Peg-8 Dioleate soon found its place in cosmetic labs because it offered reliable performance without a heavy feel on skin.

The manufacturing process starts with purified oleic acid, which reacts with ethylene oxide under controlled heat and pressure. The reaction is monitored to reach an average of eight oxyethylene units, then the mixture is neutralized, filtered and quality-checked for purity. Thanks to its stability and mildness, Peg-8 Dioleate appears in a wide range of products, including facial moisturizers, cleansing balms, sheet masks, makeup removers and lightweight serums aimed at delivering actives evenly across the skin.

Peg-8 Dioleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is valued mainly for one key function which supports a smooth, pleasant product texture.

Emulsifying: Peg-8 Dioleate helps combine oil and water so they stay mixed over time. By forming a stable emulsion it prevents separation, keeps creams from feeling greasy and ensures each application delivers consistent moisture and actives. The result is a product that spreads easily, absorbs well and feels comfortable on the skin.

Who Can Use Peg-8 Dioleate

Peg-8 Dioleate is generally well tolerated by all skin types, including dry, normal, combination, oily and even sensitive skin, because its balanced water-oil structure feels light and non-greasy while helping formulas stay stable. Those with very acne-prone skin rarely report pore clogging from this ingredient, yet overall product composition matters, so opt for non-comedogenic formulas if breakouts are a concern.

The oleic acid portion used to make Peg-8 Dioleate is typically sourced from plant oils, so the finished ingredient is suitable for vegans and vegetarians as long as the manufacturer confirms no animal-derived processing aids were used.

No studies link Peg-8 Dioleate to reproductive or developmental harm, and its large molecular size limits absorption, so it is considered low risk for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run their skin care choices past a qualified doctor just to be safe.

Peg-8 Dioleate does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also compatible with common actives like retinol, vitamin C and niacinamide, so it can be used in both basic and advanced routines without special precautions.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Peg-8 Dioleate can vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues, yet most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness or transient stinging in very sensitive skin
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to PEG compounds
  • Watering or slight irritation if the product migrates into the eyes
  • Possible breakouts for those extremely prone to acne if the overall formula is heavy or occlusive
  • Enhanced penetration of accompanying actives, which could amplify their irritation potential

If you notice persistent discomfort, rash or any unexpected reaction discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Peg-8 Dioleate contains two oleic acid chains that could in theory contribute to pore clogging, yet the attached polyethylene glycol segments make the overall molecule water friendly and far less likely to build up inside follicles. It is used at low levels and has a light feel, giving it a low real-world tendency to trigger acne. Most people prone to breakouts tolerate it without trouble though exceptionally sensitive or occlusive formulas could tip the balance.

Because it can increase the solubility of oils in water, Peg-8 Dioleate may even help rinse away residue in cleansing products, further lowering comedogenic risk.

Summary

Peg-8 Dioleate is an emulsifier that pulls oil and water together, stabilises mixtures and leaves finished products light and spreadable. Its dual nature comes from oleic acid for oil affinity and about eight ethylene oxide units for water affinity, letting it sit at the interface of both phases and keep them uniformly blended.

The ingredient enjoys moderate popularity: formulators reach for it when they want reliable emulsification without a heavy or waxy after-feel, but it is one of many PEG esters available so it is not as talked about as some trendier actives.

Safety data rate Peg-8 Dioleate as low risk with a minimal irritation profile. Still, every skin is unique so performing a small patch test when trying any new product that contains it is the best way to confirm personal compatibility.

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