What Is Peg/Ppg-18/18 Laurate?
Peg/Ppg-18/18 Laurate is a synthetic ingredient created by joining two kinds of building blocks: polyethylene glycol (PEG) and polypropylene glycol (PPG). These blocks are then linked to lauric acid, a fatty acid that occurs naturally in coconut and palm kernel oil. The result is a smooth wax-like substance that can mix both with water and with oils.
Chemists first explored PEG and PPG chains in the mid-20th century when the beauty industry was looking for safer alternatives to harsh detergents. By the late 1970s these chains were being paired with fatty acids such as lauric acid to improve skin feel and product stability. Peg/Ppg-18/18 Laurate has since become a go-to helper ingredient for labs that need reliable performance across a wide temperature range.
The manufacturing process starts with controlled reactions of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide to build an 18-unit PEG chain and an 18-unit PPG chain. These twin chains are then reacted with lauric acid to form an ester. The final material is purified, cooled and milled into flakes or a soft paste ready for formulation.
You will most often find Peg/Ppg-18/18 Laurate in lotions, creams, sunscreens, cleansing balms, sheet mask essences and leave-on conditioners where it helps keep formulas from separating while adding a light non-greasy touch.
Peg/Ppg-18/18 Laurate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is valued for the way it supports the structure and texture of a product.
- Emulsion stabilising – keeps the oil and water parts of a formula blended over time so the product stays uniform from the first use to the last
- Emulsifying – helps oils disperse into water and vice versa allowing creams and lotions to form quickly with a silky smooth consistency
Who Can Use Peg/Ppg-18/18 Laurate
Peg/Ppg-18/18 Laurate is generally well tolerated by all major skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily skin because it is lightweight and non-greasy. Sensitive skin can usually handle it too since it is non-fragrant and has a low irritation profile, though individuals who know they react to PEGs may want to watch out.
The lauric acid portion is almost always sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil so the ingredient is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. If animal-derived sources are a concern check with the brand for confirmation.
Pregnant or breastfeeding women can typically use products containing Peg/Ppg-18/18 Laurate as it is not known to penetrate deeply or affect hormone levels. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run their entire skincare routine past a qualified healthcare provider just to be safe.
The ingredient does not cause photosensitivity so there is no extra sun-care precaution beyond daily sunscreen use.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Peg/Ppg-18/18 Laurate differ from person to person. The following issues are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated in a cosmetic product.
- Mild skin redness or stinging in people already sensitive to polyethylene glycols
- Contact dermatitis if used on broken or highly compromised skin
- Eye irritation if a product accidentally gets into the eyes before rinsing
- Rare allergic response presenting as itching or small bumps
If any irritation or unexpected reaction occurs discontinue use immediately and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Peg/Ppg-18/18 Laurate starts with lauric acid, which on its own can clog pores, but the attachment to long PEG and PPG chains changes how the molecule behaves. The final ester is water dispersible, lightweight and does not readily sit inside pores, so the risk of blockage is low. Most clinical and formulary data list it as practically non-comedogenic.
Acne-prone users can usually tolerate this ingredient without an uptick in whiteheads or blackheads.
Because it helps oils mix into water, it can even aid wash-off formulas in rinsing away excess sebum which may indirectly support clearer skin.
Summary
Peg/Ppg-18/18 Laurate is an emulsion stabiliser and emulsifier that lets oil and water stay blended while giving creams and lotions a smooth non-greasy feel. It works by positioning its water-loving PEG/PPG ends in the aqueous phase and its lauric tail in the oil phase, lowering surface tension so the two phases stay united.
While not as famous as some other emulsifiers, it is a quiet staple in many mainstream and indie skincare lines because it offers reliable performance across temperatures and product types.
Current safety reviews show a very low irritation and comedogenic profile when used at normal cosmetic levels, making it suitable for most skin types. As with any new skincare ingredient, doing a small patch test is a smart way to ensure personal compatibility.