What Is Pentaerythrityl Behenate/Polyhydroxystearate?
Pentaerythrityl Behenate/Polyhydroxystearate is a waxy ester created when the molecule pentaerythritol reacts with behenic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid. The fatty acids usually come from plant oils such as rapeseed, peanut or castor while pentaerythritol is produced in a lab from simple carbon sources. When these raw materials are blended under heat with a small amount of catalyst they bond together, forming a smooth solid that disperses easily in oils and butters.
Chemists first explored this kind of ester in the 1990s while looking for richer yet lightweight emollients to replace heavier petroleum-based options. Its stable structure and silky feel quickly made it a favorite in modern formulations.
Today you will find Pentaerythrityl Behenate/Polyhydroxystearate in a wide range of leave-on products such as facial moisturizers, sunscreens, lip balms, foundation sticks, body lotions, cleansing balms and anti-aging creams. It is valued for bringing a soft touch and helping other ingredients spread evenly on the skin.
Pentaerythrityl Behenate/Polyhydroxystearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves more than one job in a formula, making it a multifunctional helper for product developers.
- Skin conditioning: Forms a thin, breathable film that smooths the skin surface, giving an instantly softer appearance and helping the skin hold onto moisture
- Emollient: Adds slip and cushy glide, reducing drag when you apply a cream or stick product and leaving behind a comfortable, non-greasy finish
Who Can Use Pentaerythrityl Behenate/Polyhydroxystearate
This silky ester suits most skin types. Dry and mature skin enjoy the extra cushioning feel while normal and combination skin benefit from the light film it leaves behind. Even oily or breakout-prone skin can usually handle it because it is less greasy than many plant butters, though those who clog very easily may prefer to use it in rinse-off products or lightweight lotions.
The raw materials come from plant oils and lab-made pentaerythritol so the ingredient itself is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. As always, be sure the finished product has no other animal-derived additives if that is important to you.
There is no published evidence that Pentaerythrityl Behenate/Polyhydroxystearate poses a problem during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should have their doctor review any skincare they plan to use.
The ester does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it does not raise the risk of sunburn. It also plays well with common actives like retinol, vitamin C and acids, adding slip without changing their effects.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Pentaerythrityl Behenate/Polyhydroxystearate vary from person to person. The points below list potential reactions only. When used correctly by the product maker most people will not notice any problems.
- Transient skin redness or mild stinging in very sensitive individuals
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in those with a specific sensitivity to behenic acid or other long-chain fatty esters
- Occasional pore congestion or small breakouts in users who are highly prone to acne
- Eye irritation if the product is accidentally rubbed into the eyes
If any negative reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Pentaerythrityl Behenate/Polyhydroxystearate is a large, branched ester that does not readily sink deep into pores. It stays mostly on the surface, creating slip without the heavy, occlusive feel of richer butters such as cocoa or coconut oil. Formulators also use it at modest concentrations, further lowering any clogging risk. For these reasons it earns a low comedogenic score of 1.
Most acne-prone users tolerate it well, though very reactive skin may still prefer lighter textures in leave-on products.
An extra point to note is that this ester is often paired with non-comedogenic silicones or lightweight plant oils, combinations that generally keep formulas friendly for breakout-prone skin.
Summary
Pentaerythrityl Behenate/Polyhydroxystearate works mainly as a skin-conditioning emollient. By forming a thin, smooth film on the surface it softens rough spots and improves moisture retention while giving creams, balms and sticks a silky glide that feels rich yet non-greasy. Its stability also helps disperse pigments and UV filters evenly, boosting the overall performance of color cosmetics and sunscreens.
The ingredient is moderately popular, appearing in everything from prestige moisturizers to drugstore lip balms. It is not as ubiquitous as classic emollients like shea butter but formulators reach for it when they want a plush feel without heaviness.
Current safety data show a very low rate of irritation or allergy, and regulatory bodies allow its use without special restrictions. Even so, when trying any new product it is wise to patch test first to ensure your skin agrees with the full formula.