What Is Pentaisostearoyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate?
Pentaisostearoyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate is a lab made form of vitamin C that has been joined with five units of isostearic acid and a glycerin backbone. This fatty vitamin C ester keeps the familiar benefits of vitamin C while gaining the smooth feel and stability that come from the lipid chains. The isostearic acid used in the process is usually sourced from plant oils such as rapeseed or coconut, then refined to cosmetic grade. Chemists first explored fatty vitamin C esters in the late 1990s to overcome the rapid oxidation and poor skin penetration of plain ascorbic acid. By attaching multiple fatty acids they created a version that mixes well with both oils and water based phases, opening new doors for formulators.
Manufacturing starts with 3-glyceryl ascorbate, itself a stable vitamin C and glycerin hybrid. Through an esterification step, each of its free hydroxyl groups is reacted with isostearic acid using food grade catalysts under controlled heat and vacuum. The result is a viscous, pale yellow liquid that resists oxidation and feels velvety on the skin.
Because it is oil loving yet still water dispersible, you will find Pentaisostearoyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate in lightweight serums, anti aging creams, brightening masks, moisturizers for dry or mature skin, eye treatments and lip balms. Its non irritating profile also makes it a good choice for products aimed at sensitive skin.
Pentaisostearoyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient brings several helpful actions to a formula
- Antioxidant: Helps neutralize free radicals created by UV light and pollution which can lead to dullness and early wrinkles. Its stable structure keeps working longer than plain vitamin C, giving products a longer shelf life
- Humectant: Draws water into the outer skin layers, boosting softness and keeping the skin from feeling tight or flaky
- Skin conditioning: The fatty acid part forms a light lipid film that smooths rough texture and enhances the skin barrier so moisture stays locked in
Who Can Use Pentaisostearoyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate
This silky vitamin C ester is friendly to nearly every skin type. Its light lipid film helps dry and mature skin feel cushioned while the non-greasy texture sits comfortably on oily or combination skin. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because the molecule is non-acidic but anyone with a known sensitivity to fatty acids or vitamin C derivatives should proceed with caution.
The ingredient is made from plant-derived isostearic acid, glycerin and lab synthesized vitamin C so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal by-products are involved during manufacturing.
Current research has not flagged any specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in cosmetic concentrations. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should discuss new skincare products with a healthcare professional.
Pentaisostearoyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight. In fact its antioxidant action can help limit photo damage but it is not a substitute for sunscreen.
People who follow a routine packed with exfoliating acids or retinoids may want to introduce this ingredient slowly to avoid overloading the skin with actives at once.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Pentaisostearoyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate differ from person to person. The issues listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for most users when the ingredient has been formulated and stored correctly.
- Mild stinging or warmth on first application
- Temporary redness or blotchiness in very reactive skin
- Localized breakouts if the rest of the formula is too rich for acne-prone skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis marked by itching, swelling or a rash
- Interaction with other strong actives that could increase overall sensitivity
If any uncomfortable effect appears stop using the product and seek advice from a medical professional if symptoms persist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Pentaisostearoyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate carries a very low risk of clogging pores because the molecule is bulky and highly branched, which makes it less likely to settle inside follicles. Formulators typically use it at modest levels so the overall oil load of a product stays light. This makes the ingredient generally safe for people who struggle with blackheads or pimples, although the rest of the formula still matters.
No data points to it trapping bacteria or worsening sebaceous activity, and its antioxidant action may even calm the kind of oxidative stress that can trigger breakouts.
Summary
Pentaisostearoyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate acts as an antioxidant that fights free radicals, a humectant that draws moisture into the surface layers and a skin conditioner that leaves a smooth protective film. It achieves these jobs by blending the brightening power of vitamin C with five cushioning isostearic acid tails and a glycerin core, giving it both water loving and oil loving properties.
This vitamin C ester is still a niche player compared with classics like ascorbic acid or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, yet formulators appreciate its stability and silky feel so it is showing up in more modern serums and creams each year.
Current research and industry usage suggest it is safe for topical use in standard cosmetic concentrations, with irritation or clogging being uncommon. As with any new skincare ingredient it is smart to try a small patch first to make sure your skin agrees with it.