Pentapeptide-38: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Pentapeptide-38?

Pentapeptide-38 is a lab made chain of five amino acids, specifically alanine, arginine, glutamic acid and glutamine. Scientists created it by joining these building blocks in a precise order to form a short peptide that can signal skin cells. The ingredient belongs to a family of peptides inspired by natural proteins found in skin that help with repair and renewal. It gained attention in the late 2000s when peptide technology started showing clear anti aging results in creams and serums, and has since become a regular in premium skin care lines.

Production begins with controlled fermentation or synthesis of each amino acid, followed by a step-by-step coupling process that links them into a stable sequence. The finished peptide is purified, then either kept as a water based solution or blended into a carrier oil, making it easy to add to cosmetic bases.

Because of its skin friendly size and stability, Pentapeptide-38 appears in serums, eye creams, sheet masks, overnight treatments, moisturizers and targeted anti aging formulas that aim to smooth fine lines and boost firmness.

Pentapeptide-38’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

The primary role of Pentapeptide-38 in skin care is skin conditioning. By supporting the skin’s natural repair signals, it helps improve surface smoothness, reinforce the moisture barrier and leave the complexion looking plumper and more even.

Who Can Use Pentapeptide-38

Pentapeptide-38 is generally considered suitable for all skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin because it is a small, gentle molecule that does not disrupt the skin’s barrier or clog pores. Those with extremely reactive or allergy-prone skin should still monitor for any individual sensitivity to peptides or other formula components, but the ingredient itself has a low irritation profile.

Because the peptide is created entirely through synthetic processes, no animal-derived materials are involved, making it appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. Cruelty-free status, however, depends on the finished brand’s testing policies.

Current data shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Pentapeptide-38 is used topically at the concentrations found in cosmetics. Penetration beyond the upper skin layers is minimal, yet this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should review any skincare product with a qualified healthcare provider to be safe.

Pentapeptide-38 does not increase photosensitivity, so it can be applied morning or night. Standard daily sunscreen is still advised to protect overall skin health. The peptide also layers well with hydrators, antioxidants and retinoids without known incompatibilities.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Pentapeptide-38 can vary by individual. The issues listed below are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is used as directed in a well-formulated product.

  • Transient redness or warmth at the application site
  • Mild itching or tingling as the product absorbs
  • Dry patches if the formula contains insufficient moisturizers for very dry skin
  • Localized swelling or hives in rare cases of peptide allergy
  • Contact dermatitis triggered by other additives such as fragrance or preservatives rather than the peptide itself

If any irritation, swelling or persistent discomfort occurs, stop using the product immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5

Pentapeptide-38 is a small water-soluble peptide that does not leave an oily film or block pores, so it is considered non-comedogenic. It dissolves easily in water based formulas and does not interact with sebum, which keeps the risk of clogged pores extremely low.

This makes Pentapeptide-38 suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Any breakout issues are more likely to come from heavier emollients or waxes in the finished product rather than from the peptide itself.

If a formula combines the peptide with rich oils or butters the overall product may feel heavier, but the peptide alone will not raise the comedogenic score.

Summary

Pentapeptide-38 is a lab made chain of five amino acids that conditions skin by sending repair signals to surface cells. These signals encourage the skin to produce more collagen and other support proteins, which can lead to a smoother, firmer and more hydrated look over time.

The peptide is most popular in premium serums and eye creams focused on anti-aging benefits, though it is not yet as common as staples like retinol or vitamin C. Brands value it for its stability and gentle profile.

Current research and real-world use show Pentapeptide-38 is safe for nearly all skin types, with a very low chance of irritation or clogged pores. Still, skin can be unpredictable so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains this or any other active ingredient.

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