What Is Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Acetylhydroxyprolyl Dipeptide-12?
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Acetylhydroxyprolyl Dipeptide-12 is a lab designed version of the naturally occurring dipeptide known as Dipeptide-12. Chemists modify the original peptide by adding carboxymethyl and acetylhydroxyprolyl groups then neutralize the molecule with five sodium ions, making it water soluble and stable in a wide pH range. This upgraded structure helps the peptide mix easily into creams and gels while maintaining activity on the skin’s surface.
The ingredient emerged in the early 2010s when peptide research was booming and brands were looking for smaller, more targeted molecules to support skin softness and resilience. Manufacturers synthesize it through controlled peptide coupling reactions followed by purification and neutralization steps that remove impurities and standardize the sodium content. Because the process is done entirely in stainless steel reactors it is considered vegan friendly and free from animal by-products.
You will most often spot Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Acetylhydroxyprolyl Dipeptide-12 in leave-on products such as anti-aging serums, lightweight moisturizers, sheet masks, eye creams and overnight treatments where its conditioning properties can stay in contact with the skin for several hours.
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Acetylhydroxyprolyl Dipeptide-12’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This peptide is prized for one main role in topical formulas.
Skin conditioning: it helps the surface of the skin feel softer, smoother and more hydrated by supporting the barrier and improving moisture retention, which can give the complexion a healthier plump appearance and enhance the feel of other active ingredients in the formula
Who Can Use Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Acetylhydroxyprolyl Dipeptide-12
This peptide is gentle enough for most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily skin. People with sensitive skin also tend to tolerate it because it is non acidic and fragrance free, though anyone with a known allergy to peptides should steer clear.
The ingredient is made by synthetic processes in stainless steel reactors with no animal input so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
Current research shows no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the peptide is used in the small amounts found in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a doctor before adding new skincare products just to be safe.
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Acetylhydroxyprolyl Dipeptide-12 does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun and can be used day or night without special precautions beyond everyday sunscreen.
It plays well with most common skincare actives and does not affect makeup wear, so it can slot into almost any routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Acetylhydroxyprolyl Dipeptide-12 can vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues that could occur, but they are uncommon when the ingredient is used in properly formulated products.
- Temporary redness or warmth at the application site
- Mild itching or tingling
- Dryness if layered with very strong exfoliants
- Allergic contact dermatitis in people sensitive to peptides or sodium salts
- Rare swelling or hives indicating an allergic response
If any of these side effects appear stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist or worsen.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5. Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Acetylhydroxyprolyl Dipeptide-12 is a small water-soluble peptide salt that does not leave an oily film or clog pores. It disperses evenly in water-based formulas and rinses clean when removed, so it is highly unlikely to trap dead cells or sebum inside follicles.
Because of this low rating it is generally considered safe for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.
The only caveat is that breakouts triggered by a poorly preserved or heavily fragranced formula can be mistakenly blamed on the peptide itself. Always look at the full ingredient list when troubleshooting congestion.
Summary
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Acetylhydroxyprolyl Dipeptide-12 is a lab-crafted version of a natural dipeptide that focuses on one key job: conditioning the skin. By attracting and holding water at the surface and supporting the barrier’s lipid matrix it leaves skin feeling softer smoother and more resilient. Its water-soluble sodium salt form keeps it active across a broad pH range so it remains stable in serums creams masks and eye treatments.
The ingredient is still a niche player compared to headline actives like retinol or vitamin C but it is quietly gaining traction in mid to high-end formulations that want a gentle boost in skin feel.
Safety data and real-world use show a very low risk of irritation or clogging. That said every skin is different so it is smart to patch test any new product that contains this peptide before applying it to the entire face.