What Is Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Hexanoyl Dipeptide-12?
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Hexanoyl Dipeptide-12 is a lab-crafted peptide derivative. Chemically it is the pentasodium salt of a short two-amino-acid chain (a dipeptide) that has been modified with a six-carbon hexanoyl group for skin affinity and four carboxymethyl groups that are neutralised with sodium to boost water solubility and stability. The molecule is entirely synthetic, allowing precise control over purity and performance without relying on animal or plant extraction.
The ingredient emerged from peptide research in the late 2000s, when formulators looked for smaller, highly targeted molecules that could signal skin cells to behave in a youthful, well-balanced way. By attaching extra carboxymethyl groups scientists increased the peptide’s ability to bind water and remain active in diverse formulas, opening the door for its use in everyday skincare rather than specialised spa treatments.
Production begins with solid-phase peptide synthesis, a method that adds one amino acid at a time to build the dipeptide chain. Once the chain is complete it is capped with a hexanoyl group, then reacted with chloroacetic acid to introduce the four carboxymethyl arms. Finally the material is neutralised with food-grade sodium hydroxide and purified into a fine, free-flowing powder that dissolves quickly in water-based systems.
You will most often spot Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Hexanoyl Dipeptide-12 in brightening serums, daily moisturisers aimed at evening tone, lightweight emulsions marketed as anti-aging, targeted spot correctors, sheet masks and eye treatments that promise a refreshed look.
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Hexanoyl Dipeptide-12’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Its recognised function in cosmetic science translates to the following benefit for your skin:
Skin conditioning: the peptide helps skin feel softer, smoother and generally healthier by supporting optimal hydration levels and encouraging a more even surface appearance. Regular use can leave the complexion looking refreshed, well moisturised and balanced while enhancing the performance of other complimentary ingredients in the formula.
Who Can Use Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Hexanoyl Dipeptide-12
This peptide is considered gentle and adaptable so it usually suits dry, oily, combination and even sensitive skin. Its water-loving structure does not clog pores or leave a heavy residue which makes it friendly to acne-prone complexions. People with hypersensitive or highly reactive skin can generally tolerate it because it contains no fragrance or known irritant groups, though individual responses can still vary.
Because the molecule is fully synthetic and produced without animal derivatives it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. The manufacturing process relies on laboratory synthesis rather than animal by-products or animal testing in regions that forbid it.
Current data shows no specific risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when this ingredient is used topically in cosmetic concentrations. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the product to a qualified healthcare professional before adding it to a routine.
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Hexanoyl Dipeptide-12 is not known to increase sensitivity to sunlight and does not interfere with common sunscreen filters. Normal daily sun protection practices remain advisable but extra precautions are not required solely because of this peptide. No other major lifestyle restrictions or special handling steps are associated with the ingredient.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Hexanoyl Dipeptide-12 differ from person to person. The points below outline possible reactions yet most users who apply a correctly formulated product will experience none of them.
- Temporary redness or warmth where the product is applied
- Mild stinging or tingling, especially on freshly exfoliated skin
- Dry patches if the product contains insufficient moisturising agents
- Localized swelling or itching indicating an allergic response
- Eye irritation if the formula accidentally gets into the eyes
If any uncomfortable reaction occurs stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0/5. Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Hexanoyl Dipeptide-12 is a small, water-soluble peptide salt with no oily or waxy parts so it does not block pores on its own. It usually comes in lightweight serums or gels that rinse cleanly from the skin.
This makes it suitable for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.
If the finished product pairs the peptide with heavy butters or occlusive oils the overall formula could still feel greasy, so check the full ingredient list if you are highly clog-prone.
Summary
Pentasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Hexanoyl Dipeptide-12 is a lab-made dipeptide that conditions skin by holding water at the surface and sending gentle signals that help keep tone even and texture smooth. Its sodium carboxymethyl arms pull in moisture while the hexanoyl tail improves skin affinity, letting it sit where it can do its job.
Use of this peptide is growing but it is not yet a household name, showing up mostly in brightening spot treatments, eye gels and mid-range moisturisers that lean on modern peptide tech.
Safety data point to a low risk of irritation, no pore-clogging potential and zero animal-derived material. Still, everyone’s skin is different so try a small patch first any time you introduce a new product featuring this ingredient.