Phellinus Linteus/Inonotus Obliquus Extract Ferment Water: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Phellinus Linteus/Inonotus Obliquus Extract Ferment Water?

Phellinus Linteus/Inonotus Obliquus Extract Ferment Water comes from two mushrooms that have long been valued in East Asian wellness traditions: Inonotus obliquus, better known as chaga, and Phellinus linteus. First, chaga mushroom is extracted to pull out its natural nutrients such as polyphenols, beta-glucans and minerals. That extract is then fermented with the Phellinus linteus fungus. During fermentation the fungus breaks down larger molecules into smaller ones that skin can absorb more easily, while also producing extra antioxidants and humectant compounds. After fermentation, the mixture is gently steam-distilled, and the vapor is condensed into a clear water-like solution that is filtered and stabilized for cosmetic use.

This ingredient started appearing in Korean skin care labs about a decade ago, when formulators looked for bio-fermented alternatives to plain water that could boost antioxidant activity. Because it is lightweight and water-soluble it slips into a wide variety of products. You will most often find it in hydrating toners, essence-type treatments, sheet masks, soothing gels, anti-aging serums and lightweight moisturizers where it can replace part or all of the base water phase.

Phellinus Linteus/Inonotus Obliquus Extract Ferment Water’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulations this fermented mushroom water contributes several skin-friendly actions:

  • Antioxidant: Helps neutralize free radicals generated by UV light and pollution which, over time, can dull skin tone and spur visible aging
  • Humectant: Attracts and holds water on the skin surface providing instant hydration and a plumper look without heaviness
  • Skin conditioning: Leaves the skin feeling softer and smoother supporting overall barrier comfort and a healthy-looking glow

Who Can Use Phellinus Linteus/Inonotus Obliquus Extract Ferment Water

This fermented mushroom water is lightweight and free of oils so it works for nearly every skin type from dry and sensitive to combination and oily. People with easily clogged pores appreciate its non-greasy feel while those with dehydrated or mature skin enjoy the added humectant boost. The only group that may need caution is anyone with a known mushroom allergy because cross-reactivity could occur.

The ingredient is derived entirely from plant fungi and water with no animal-derived processing aids, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians. It is also gluten free and soy free by nature, which can be relevant for some shoppers.

Current data do not flag any specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is applied topically in cosmetic amounts. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review all skincare choices with a physician to stay on the safe side.

The extract does not heighten sensitivity to sunlight and can be used in both morning and night routines without increasing risk of sunburn. It also layers well with common actives like niacinamide or hyaluronic acid and does not interfere with sunscreen performance.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Phellinus Linteus/Inonotus Obliquus Extract Ferment Water differ from person to person. The issues listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated and preserved.

  • Redness or stinging
  • Itchy patches or hives in individuals allergic to mushrooms or ferment byproducts
  • Contact dermatitis if combined with other irritants in the same formula
  • Rare fungal acne-like breakouts in people highly prone to malassezia overgrowth

If you notice any discomfort discontinue use and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5

Phellinus Linteus/Inonotus Obliquus Extract Ferment Water is essentially a purified, water-based distillate with no oils, waxes or heavy emollients that could block pores. Its molecules are small, light and readily absorbed or evaporated, leaving minimal residue. Fermentation does not introduce fatty acids known to be comedogenic, so the pore-clogging risk stays extremely low.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

Because the ingredient is usually part of the water phase, a formula’s overall comedogenicity will depend more on the other components such as oils, silicones or butters included alongside it.

Summary

Phellinus Linteus/Inonotus Obliquus Extract Ferment Water serves three main jobs: it supplies antioxidants that help defend skin from daily oxidative stress, acts as a humectant that pulls moisture into the upper layers for instant hydration and conditions skin so it feels smoother and looks refreshed. These benefits come from mushroom-derived polyphenols, beta-glucans and small hydration-binding sugars created during fermentation.

Although not yet a household name, the ingredient is gaining traction in K-beauty inspired toners, essences and lightweight gels as brands look to swap plain water for something more skin-active. Its clean label and vegan origin add to the appeal for conscious consumers.

Overall safety data are reassuring with low irritation and virtually no comedogenic risk for most users. As with any new skincare product it is wise to patch test first to ensure personal compatibility.

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