Phellodendron Amurense Leaf: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Phellodendron Amurense Leaf?

Phellodendron Amurense Leaf comes from the leaves of the Amur cork tree, a hardy plant native to northeastern Asia. The leaves carry a mix of natural oils, small amounts of alkaloids and soothing plant sugars that give them a mild earthy scent and gentle skin-friendly properties. Traditional folk practices in China and Korea once simmered the leaves for baths and fabric dyes, a background that caught the eye of modern formulators looking for botanical options.

To turn the raw leaves into a cosmetic ingredient the harvested foliage is washed, air-dried then ground into a fine powder or steeped in a glycerin-water blend to pull out the aromatic compounds. The resulting extract or powder is filtered, checked for purity and blended into bases like creams or serums.

You will most often spot Phellodendron Amurense Leaf in calming sheet masks, lightweight daily moisturizers, fragrant body lotions, toners aimed at balancing oil, scalp treatments and even natural deodorants where a soft woodsy note is welcome.

Phellodendron Amurense Leaf’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking leaf lends several handy traits to beauty formulas

  • Flavouring – in lip balms or flavored dental rinses it gives a subtle herbal taste that feels clean and refreshing without overpowering other notes
  • Fragrance – its gentle wood-like scent rounds out botanical perfume blends bringing a soft green nuance
  • Perfuming – when used at higher levels it can act as a stand-alone natural perfume note helping mask less pleasant base ingredients and giving products a more upscale sensory feel
  • Skin Conditioning – the leaf’s sugars and trace oils form a light film that supports the skin barrier leaving it feeling smooth calm and lightly hydrated

Who Can Use Phellodendron Amurense Leaf

Thanks to its lightweight plant oils and soothing polysaccharides, Phellodendron Amurense Leaf tends to agree with most skin types including oily, combination, normal and slightly dry complexions. Its calming nature means sensitive or redness-prone skin usually tolerates it as well. Those with very dry skin may find it too light as a stand-alone hydrator, though it still layers well under richer creams.

The ingredient is purely botanical with no animal derivatives or by-products, so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles without reservation.

No studies flag the leaf extract as unsafe for pregnancy or breastfeeding when used topically and in standard cosmetic concentrations. That said this is not medical advice and expectant or nursing users should run any skincare product past a qualified health professional before adding it to a routine.

Phellodendron Amurense Leaf is not known to make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so regular daily SPF habits are all that is needed rather than extra photo-protection steps.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Phellodendron Amurense Leaf can vary from person to person. The points below describe potential reactions yet they are uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.

  • Mild redness or itching
  • Transient stinging on very compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to Rutaceae family plants
  • Eye irritation if the formula is accidentally rubbed into the eyes

If any irritation or unusual reaction develops discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Phellodendron Amurense Leaf extract contains only trace lipids and is usually delivered in water, glycerin or alcohol bases, all of which sit light on the skin and rinse away easily. Because there is so little oil, the chance of the extract clogging pores is very low, earning it a score of 1 rather than a perfect 0 since individual formulas can still include richer carrier ingredients. This makes it generally safe for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

As with any botanical, the overall pore-friendliness also depends on the other ingredients in the product, so reading the full label matters if congestion is a concern.

Summary

Phellodendron Amurense Leaf works in cosmetics as a gentle flavouring agent, a soft green fragrance note, a natural perfuming accent and a mild skin conditioner that leaves a light soothing film. It achieves these roles through its mix of aromatic molecules, subtle plant oils and calming polysaccharides.

The ingredient remains a niche choice rather than a mainstream star, appearing mostly in nature-inspired skin care lines, scalp mists and body products where formulators want a quiet woody scent without heaviness.

Current research and long-standing traditional use point to a strong safety profile with low irritancy and minimal comedogenic risk, yet every skin is different. Patch testing a new product for a couple of days on a small area is a smart step to confirm personal tolerance before applying it more broadly.

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