Phytosteryl Caprylate/Caprate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Phytosteryl Caprylate/Caprate?

Phytosteryl Caprylate/Caprate is an ester made by joining plant-derived phytosterols with two light fatty acids, caprylic acid and capric acid, both found in coconut and palm oils. This blend gives the ingredient a creamy yet non-greasy feel that skin and hair readily accept.

Phytosterols have long been valued in skincare for their soothing effect. Chemists began linking them to short-chain fatty acids in the late 1990s to improve spreadability and boost moisture retention. The resulting ester, Phytosteryl Caprylate/Caprate, quickly found favor in labs because it mimics the skin’s own lipids, melts at body temperature and leaves a velvety finish.

Production starts with purified phytosterols sourced from vegetable oils. These are reacted with caprylic and capric acids under controlled heat and vacuum, forming a stable ester. The final material is filtered, cooled and milled into a fine powder or soft wax that blends easily into creams and lotions.

You will spot Phytosteryl Caprylate/Caprate in moisturizers, anti-aging creams, soothing masks, leave-on hair conditioners, styling balms and lightweight serums where a smooth slip without greasiness is desired.

Phytosteryl Caprylate/Caprate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This versatile ester supports both skin and hair care formulas in the following ways:

  • Hair Conditioning: Forms a thin film on strands that adds softness, reduces static and helps tame frizz without weighing hair down
  • Skin Conditioning: Replenishes surface lipids, boosts moisture, improves skin elasticity and leaves a silky touch that enhances the overall sensory feel of a product

Who Can Use Phytosteryl Caprylate/Caprate

Thanks to its light yet cushioning texture this ester suits most skin types including oily, combination and dry skin. It helps oily complexions by providing moisture without heaviness while its lipid-rich nature comforts drier skin. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it well since phytosterols have a calming reputation; however individuals with a known coconut or palm oil sensitivity should approach with caution because the fatty acids are sourced from those oils.

The ingredient comes from plant sterols and vegetable-derived fatty acids so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. No animal-based raw materials or by-products are involved in its manufacture.

Current data shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when using products that contain Phytosteryl Caprylate/Caprate. Still this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should ask a doctor before adding new skincare to their routine.

Phytosteryl Caprylate/Caprate is not known to cause photosensitivity. It does not make skin more reactive to sunlight and has no reported interactions with common sun care ingredients.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Phytosteryl Caprylate/Caprate differ from person to person. The following list covers potential but uncommon effects. When the ingredient is correctly formulated most users will not notice any problems.

  • Mild skin redness or irritation in those with a coconut or palm oil allergy
  • Temporary clogged pores if layered heavily on very acne-prone skin
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching or small bumps

If any irritation or other adverse effect occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Phytosteryl Caprylate/Caprate sits low on the comedogenic scale because it is an ester that melts at skin temperature and spreads in a thin breathable layer. Its short-chain fatty acid portion does not linger long enough to build up inside pores yet offers enough slip for conditioning. A small risk of congestion exists for those who react to any fatty component, which keeps the rating from being a perfect zero.

This makes the ingredient generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, provided the overall formula is lightweight.

Bear in mind that comedogenic scores are guides, not absolutes. The final feel and pore-friendliness of a product depend on the full ingredient mix, concentration and personal skin chemistry.

Summary

Phytosteryl Caprylate/Caprate conditions skin and hair by replenishing surface lipids, locking in moisture and giving products a silky non-greasy finish. It achieves these effects because its phytosterol backbone calms and reinforces the skin barrier while the attached caprylic and capric acids add softness and glide.

Although not a household name, the ester is gaining quiet popularity with formulators who want a plant-based alternative to heavier oils and silicones. You will mainly find it in mid to premium moisturizers, soothing treatments and lightweight hair products.

Safety data shows the ingredient is well tolerated with only rare reports of irritation or pore clogging. As with any new cosmetic, perform a simple patch test before full use so you can make sure your skin agrees with it.

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