What Is Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate?
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is a skin-conditioning agent created by linking plant-derived phytosterols and a lightweight fatty alcohol called octyldodecanol to lauroyl glutamic acid, which itself comes from coconut or palm fatty acids and the amino acid glutamic acid often sourced from corn or sugar beets. The result is a waxy ester that melts near body temperature, spreading smoothly across the skin.
The ingredient was developed in Japan in the late 1990s when formulators searched for milder, more skin-friendly alternatives to traditional petrolatum derivatives. By combining naturally occurring building blocks they produced a compound that mimics the skin’s own lipid structure so it could replenish the outer barrier without a greasy feel. Manufacturing involves enzymatic or acid catalysis to bond the fatty acid, amino acid and sterol portions, followed by purification and micro-filtration to remove impurities.
You will most often find Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate in products that aim to boost softness and barrier strength such as facial and body moisturizers, night creams, soothing masks, hand lotions, baby care formulas, lip balms and lightweight anti-aging serums.
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient brings one key function to a formula, working as a skin-conditioning agent. It helps smooth rough patches, soften texture and reinforce the skin’s natural moisture barrier so water stays in and irritants stay out. Because its structure is similar to the lipids already present in healthy skin it absorbs quickly leaving a velvety non-oily finish that suits all skin types, even sensitive or acne-prone.
Who Can Use Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
This lipid-like ester is considered suitable for nearly every skin type. Its quick-absorbing, non-greasy finish makes it a good match for oily and combination skin while its barrier-supportive nature helps dry, sensitive or mature skin feel more comfortable. Because it is very mild and free of common irritants such as fragrance or essential oils it is generally well tolerated by reactive or redness-prone complexions. There are no particular concerns for darker skin tones or those prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
The ingredient is synthesized from plant-derived building blocks, so products using it are typically vegan and vegetarian friendly. Still, labels can vary, so committed vegan users should confirm the full formula is free of animal-derived materials.
No data indicate that topical Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate poses a risk during pregnancy or breastfeeding. That said, this information is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare routine past a qualified physician just to be safe.
The ester does not increase photosensitivity. Normal daytime sun protection habits are still recommended because UV exposure is a primary driver of skin aging.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can differ from person to person. The effects listed below are potential outcomes only and are unlikely for the average user when the product is formulated and used as intended.
- Mild irritation or redness ‑ rare, usually linked to an existing skin condition rather than the ingredient itself
- Allergic contact dermatitis ‑ extremely uncommon but possible in individuals sensitized to plant sterols or fatty alcohols
- Clogged pores or breakouts ‑ unlikely yet may occur in very acne-prone users if a product contains a high overall oil phase
If you experience any of these issues stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate closely mimics the structure of the skin’s own lipids so it blends into the barrier instead of sitting on top and blocking pores. It has a light, semi-fluid texture and a low molecular weight compared with heavier plant butters or mineral oils, which further reduces the chance of pore congestion. For these reasons it earns a low score of 1.
Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone skin in most cases.
As with any lipid-based ingredient, the overall formula matters. If the product pairs this ester with highly occlusive waxes or heavy oils the end result could feel richer and may not suit very oily skin types.
Summary
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is a skin-conditioning ester that softens rough spots, boosts moisture retention and helps rebuild the outer barrier by slotting into the lipid matrix much like the skin’s own ceramides. It absorbs quickly so it leaves a velvety finish rather than an oily film.
While it is not the most famous skincare star, formulators appreciate its gentle nature and pleasant skin feel so you will find it in a growing number of moisturizers, serums and baby care products.
Current research and consumer experience rate the ingredient as very safe with a low risk of irritation or breakouts, yet every skin is unique. When trying any new product that contains it, do a quick patch test and watch for unexpected reactions just to be sure.