What Is Pisum Sativum Starch?
Pisum Sativum Starch is a plant-based starch extracted from the common garden pea, Pisum sativum L. Chemically it is made up mainly of amylose and amylopectin, two large carbohydrate molecules that create a soft powder once the pea seeds are processed. Peas have long been valued as food, and their starch has been used in cooking for thickening sauces. As the push for gentle plant-derived ingredients grew, formulators noticed that pea starch left a smooth matte feel on the skin, so it was adopted for cosmetic use in the mid- to late-20th century.
Manufacturers start by cleaning and milling dried peas, then use water to separate the starch from protein and fiber. The starch slurry is filtered, dried and finely milled into a silky white powder that is easy to blend into both water-based and anhydrous formulas.
You will most often see Pisum Sativum Starch in loose and pressed face powders, baby powders, dry shampoos, masks, mattifying primers, oil-control lotions, cream deodorants and certain color cosmetics where a soft focus finish is desired.
Pisum Sativum Starch’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This pea-derived starch offers two key technical roles in skincare and makeup formulas:
- Absorbent: Soaks up excess oil, sweat and moisture, helping products control shine and extend wear time. In dry shampoos it lifts grease from the scalp, while in face powders it keeps the complexion looking fresh and non-greasy.
- Opacifying: Adds a subtle white pigment that diffuses light and blurs fine lines, giving skin a soft focus appearance. It also helps mask any unwanted transparency in creams and lotions, resulting in a richer looking texture.
Who Can Use Pisum Sativum Starch
Pisum Sativum Starch is considered gentle enough for all skin types. Oily and combination skin may find it particularly helpful because of its oil-absorbing ability, while normal skin can enjoy its soft focus finish. Very dry or compromised skin should use it in moderation since its absorbency can accentuate dryness if overapplied.
Because it is entirely plant derived and processed without animal inputs it suits both vegans and vegetarians.
Current research shows no evidence that topical pea starch absorbs systemically or poses a risk during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a doctor before adding new products to their routine.
The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so no extra sun precautions are needed beyond everyday sunscreen use.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Pisum Sativum Starch differ between individuals. The points below list potential effects that are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild skin irritation such as temporary redness or itching
- Allergic reaction in people with pea or legume allergies which could present as hives or swelling
- Temporary pore congestion if heavy layers of powder accumulate on very acne-prone skin
- Extra dryness or tightness on already dehydrated skin due to its moisture-absorbing nature
- Respiratory irritation from inhaling loose powder during application, especially for those with asthma or sensitive lungs
If you experience any of these issues discontinue use and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Pisum Sativum Starch particles are fairly large and sit on the surface of skin, so they are unlikely to block pores for most people. The powder can mix with sebum and sweat, creating a paste that may settle into pores if applied in thick layers on very oily or acne prone skin, but this risk is low compared with heavier plant oils or waxes.
Suitable for acne prone skin? Generally yes, but use light layers and remove thoroughly at the end of the day.
Because it is a dry, inert starch it will not feed acne bacteria or add extra oil to the skin. Still, combining it with rich emollients in certain formulas could raise the overall clogging potential so check the full ingredient list of each product.
Summary
Pisum Sativum Starch is valued in cosmetics as a natural absorbent and opacifying agent. It soaks up excess oil and moisture then scatters light to give skin a soft matte look, which is why it shows up in powders, primers, dry shampoos, masks and oil control lotions.
The ingredient is growing in popularity thanks to the clean beauty trend and consumer interest in plant based, vegan friendly alternatives to talc and synthetic fillers. It is still less common than corn or rice starch but is appearing in more products each year.
Overall pea starch is considered very safe for topical use with a low risk of irritation or pore clogging. As with any new cosmetic it is smart to do a quick patch test first to make sure your skin agrees with the full formula.