Pogostemon Cablin Leaf/Stem Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Pogostemon Cablin Leaf/Stem Extract?

Pogostemon Cablin Leaf/Stem Extract comes from the leaves and stems of the patchouli plant, a member of the mint family grown mainly in Southeast Asia. The plant is rich in fragrant oils that contain natural compounds like patchoulol, pogostol and other sesquiterpenes that give it its well known earthy scent. Patchouli oil first became popular in perfumes and incense in the 19th century and gained worldwide fame during the 1960s. Skin care brands later noticed that its oil was not just fragrant but also calming and protective for the skin, which led to the use of this refined extract in modern formulas.

To make the cosmetic grade extract, harvested leaves and stems are dried, then processed by steam distillation or a gentle solvent method to pull out the active oil-soluble parts. The result is a concentrated liquid that keeps the beneficial molecules but removes most of the plant matter and strong earthy odor, making it easier to add to creams and serums.

You will often see Pogostemon Cablin Leaf/Stem Extract in face masks, toners, anti-aging creams, lightweight moisturizers, scalp balancing treatments, aftershaves and products aimed at oily or blemish prone skin.

Pogostemon Cablin Leaf/Stem Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skin and hair formulas this botanical offers several useful actions:

  • Anti-Seborrheic: Helps calm an overactive scalp or oily skin by reducing excess sebum, which can lead to a fresher feel and fewer shiny spots
  • Antimicrobial: Limits the growth of odor-causing or blemish-causing microbes, supporting clearer skin and a cleaner scalp
  • Antioxidant: Neutralizes free radicals from pollution and UV exposure, which helps protect skin proteins and lipids from early breakdown and keeps the complexion looking more youthful
  • Astringent: Provides a mild tightening effect that can make pores look smaller and give skin a smoother appearance
  • Skin Protecting: Forms a light shield that supports the skin barrier, helping it stay resilient against daily stress and dryness

Who Can Use Pogostemon Cablin Leaf/Stem Extract

This extract is generally well tolerated by normal, oily, combination and mature skin because it helps balance oil while offering antioxidant protection. Dry or very sensitive skin can still use it, though the natural fragrance compounds may feel a bit strong on extremely reactive complexions, so lower concentrations are preferable in that case.

Because it is derived purely from a plant source with no animal by-products, products containing Pogostemon Cablin Leaf/Stem Extract are suitable for vegetarians and vegans, provided the rest of the formula also meets cruelty-free and animal-free standards.

Current research shows no specific issues for pregnant or breastfeeding women when this ingredient is used topically in cosmetic amounts. That said, safety data in these groups is limited so this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new skincare to their routine.

The extract is not known to make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it is not considered photosensitizing. A broad-spectrum sunscreen is still recommended during the day, as with any routine aimed at maintaining skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Pogostemon Cablin Leaf/Stem Extract vary from person to person. The following outlines potential but uncommon side effects when the ingredient has been correctly formulated in a cosmetic product.

  • Skin irritation such as mild burning or stinging in sensitive users
  • Redness or flushing, particularly on compromised or inflamed skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis triggered by naturally occurring fragrance allergens
  • Dryness or a tight feel if used in high concentrations due to its astringent action
  • Interaction with other strong actives like retinoids or exfoliating acids leading to cumulative sensitivity

If any of these effects occur discontinue use and seek advice from a qualified healthcare provider or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5 – Pogostemon Cablin Leaf/Stem Extract is made up mostly of lightweight aromatic compounds rather than heavy lipids, so it rarely forms the waxy plug that clogs pores.

This low score means the extract is generally fine for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

Bear in mind the finished product’s texture matters; if the extract sits in a heavy butter or waxy balm the overall formula could still feel pore-clogging even though the extract itself is not.

Summary

Pogostemon Cablin Leaf/Stem Extract works as an anti-seborrheic by dialing back excess oil, an antimicrobial that discourages blemish-forming microbes, an antioxidant that mops up free radicals, a mild astringent that momentarily tightens pores and a skin protector that helps shore up the barrier. These jobs come from its sesquiterpenes and phenolic compounds which soothe, defend and balance the skin.

While patchouli has long been famous in perfumery the refined leaf/stem extract is still a niche but growing star in skin and scalp products as brands look for multitasking botanicals.

Overall the ingredient is considered safe at the low percentages used in cosmetics with the main caveat being potential fragrance sensitivity. As with any new product a short patch test is a smart precaution before regular use.

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