What Is Poloxamine 504?
Poloxamine 504 is a synthetic ingredient made by linking blocks of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide to a central ethylenediamine molecule, creating a star-shaped polymer that is easily attracted to both oil and water. The raw materials—ethylene oxide and propylene oxide—are commonly sourced from the petrochemical industry. First introduced in the 1960s for use in industrial and medical settings, it soon caught the attention of cosmetic chemists looking for a gentle yet effective way to keep oil and water evenly mixed.
Manufacturing begins with ethylenediamine, which provides four reactive sites. Propylene oxide is added to each arm, followed by ethylene oxide. Careful control of temperature, pressure and reaction time allows chemists to fine-tune the length of each block, giving Poloxamine 504 its reliable performance and mildness.
You will often find Poloxamine 504 in leave-on and rinse-off products such as facial moisturizers, lightweight serums, sunscreens, makeup removers, sheet masks, hair conditioners and after-shave balms. Its ability to keep formulations uniform helps brands offer clear gels, silky lotions and sprays that stay stable over time.
Poloxamine 504’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In cosmetics Poloxamine 504 serves one main purpose that delivers several practical benefits for both the formulator and the end user.
As an emulsifying agent it binds oil with water, preventing separation during storage and use. This keeps creams and lotions looking smooth and appealing, improves the spreadability of the product on skin or hair and allows active ingredients that sit in either the oil or water phase to be delivered evenly. Its mild nature also helps create formulas that feel light rinsing clean without leaving a heavy residue.
Who Can Use Poloxamine 504
Poloxamine 504 is considered gentle enough for all skin types including oily, dry, combination and sensitive skin because it does not clog pores or leave a heavy film. Extremely reactive or allergy-prone skin may still prefer to avoid synthetic emulsifiers, so checking the full ingredient list is wise.
The ingredient is produced entirely from petrochemical feedstocks with no animal-derived components or by-products, making it suitable for vegetarians and vegans.
Current research shows no reason to restrict topical use of Poloxamine 504 during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. It is not known to penetrate deeply or enter systemic circulation. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare product past a doctor to be on the safe side.
Poloxamine 504 does not cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also non ionic and generally mild around the eye area, which is why you will often see it in makeup removers and micellar waters.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Poloxamine 504 can vary from person to person. The following is a list of potential side effects that may occur although they are uncommon when the ingredient is used at appropriate levels in a well-formulated product.
- Transient skin irritation such as mild redness or itching
- Stinging sensation around the eyes if the product is not rinsed thoroughly
- Dryness or tightness if used at very high concentrations in leave-on formulas
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitised to polyether compounds
If you experience any of these adverse effects discontinue use and seek medical advice if symptoms persist or worsen.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5
Poloxamine 504 is a high-molecular-weight, water-soluble emulsifier that stays mostly on the surface of skin then rinses away easily. It does not leave an occlusive film or deposit fatty residues that could block pores, so the likelihood of it triggering blackheads or breakouts is extremely low.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
No studies or user reports suggest the ingredient worsens fungal acne, and it is compatible with common acne treatments such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid.
Summary
Poloxamine 504 is a synthetic emulsifier that keeps water and oil phases evenly blended, giving creams, lotions and cleansers a smooth stable texture. Its star-shaped polymer structure positions water-loving arms on the outside of tiny oil droplets and oil-loving sections on the inside, preventing separation during storage and use.
While not as famous as ingredients like polysorbate or lecithin, Poloxamine 504 sees steady use in lightweight moisturizers, micellar waters and sunscreen sprays where a clean feel and low irritation are priorities.
Current data shows it is non-comedogenic, largely non-irritating and safe for all skin types including sensitive and acne-prone skin. As with any new product, patch testing is a smart precaution.