What Is Poloxamine 908?
Poloxamine 908 is a synthetic, nonionic surfactant made by reacting ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with an ethylenediamine backbone. The result is a star-shaped molecule that has both water-loving and oil-loving sections, letting it mix oily substances with water. First introduced in the 1960s for industrial and pharmaceutical applications, it was soon adopted by cosmetic chemists looking for a gentle alternative to harsher detergents.
The manufacturing process starts with ethylenediamine, which is sequentially treated with propylene oxide to build hydrophobic polypropylene glycol chains, then capped with ethylene oxide to add hydrophilic polyethylene glycol segments. Careful control of temperature and pressure allows producers to tailor the final molecular weight and balance of the two blocks, creating Poloxamine 908 with predictable performance and safety.
Because of its ability to lift away dirt while remaining mild on skin, Poloxamine 908 shows up in facial cleansers, micellar waters, makeup removers, foaming shampoos, body washes, baby wipes, hydrating toners and lightweight moisturizers. Its emulsifying power also makes it useful in lotions, serums and after-sun gels where oils need to stay evenly dispersed without separating on the shelf.
Poloxamine 908’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
When formulators choose Poloxamine 908 they are usually looking for one of two core functions that translate into clear benefits for the finished product
- Cleansing – The molecule surrounds oil and dirt particles then helps rinse them away with water, creating a gentle cleanse that respects the skin barrier and leaves a soft after-feel
- Emulsifying – Its dual affinity keeps water and oil phases blended so creams stay smooth, transparent gels remain stable and sprayable formulas do not break apart over time
Who Can Use Poloxamine 908
Poloxamine 908 is considered gentle enough for nearly all skin types. Dry or mature skin benefits from its mild cleansing that keeps natural oils intact, while oily and combination skin appreciate the lightweight feel that never clogs pores. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because the molecule is nonionic and low in irritation potential. There are no known skin types that must avoid it outright, though anyone with a history of allergy to polyether surfactants should stay cautious.
Because Poloxamine 908 is fully synthetic and contains no animal-derived components, it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. Its production relies on petrochemical feedstocks, not animal fats or proteins.
The ingredient is regarded as low risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, as it sits on the skin surface and is not meaningfully absorbed. This is not medical advice, and expectant or nursing mothers should show any skincare routine to a healthcare professional before use just to be safe.
Poloxamine 908 does not make skin more prone to sunburn and has no known effect on photosensitivity. It also has an excellent safety record around the delicate eye area when used at typical cleanser or makeup remover levels.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Poloxamine 908 differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Mild skin irritation – Very sensitive skin may feel slight tingling or warmth after long contact
- Redness or itching – Usually short lived and resolves once the product is rinsed away
- Dryness or tightness – Can occur if the formula pairs the surfactant with strong solvents or alcohol
- Eye stinging – Possible if a cleanser accidentally gets into the eyes at higher concentrations
- Allergic contact dermatitis – Extremely rare but possible in individuals already sensitised to polyoxyethylene compounds
If any discomfort, rash or prolonged irritation develops, stop using the product and consult a qualified healthcare provider.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0/5
Poloxamine 908 is highly water soluble and designed to rinse off without leaving a greasy film, so it does not obstruct pores or trap sebum. Its large, star shaped molecule sits on the surface just long enough to cleanse then washes away, making clogging very unlikely.
Suitable for acne prone or breakout prone skin.
Because it works best at low use levels and in rinse off products, there is little chance of residue build-up even with daily use.
Summary
Poloxamine 908 serves mainly as a gentle cleanser and a reliable emulsifier. Its balanced water loving and oil loving blocks wrap around dirt and oils, lift them from the skin then keep everything dispersed in water until it is rinsed away.
The ingredient enjoys modest popularity: it is not as common as mainstream surfactants but shows up in formulas that aim for extra mildness such as micellar waters baby washes and lightweight lotions.
Overall safety is excellent, with a long track record of low irritation and virtually no serious reactions. As with any new cosmetic ingredient, a short patch test on a small area is wise before adding a product containing Poloxamine 908 to your routine.