What Is Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate?
Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate is a plant-derived ester formed by combining decaglycerol, which is a chain of ten glycerin units, with long-chain fatty acids known as behenic and eicosadioic acids. The glycerin portion usually comes from vegetable oils while the fatty acids are often sourced from rapeseed or other seed oils. Chemists began exploring polyglyceryl esters in the late 20th century as a milder alternative to traditional surfactants and discovered that pairing a high-glycerin backbone with long fatty acids produced a skin-friendly emulsifier. To make it, manufacturers first polymerize glycerin under controlled heat then react the resulting decaglycerol with purified fatty acids, creating a molecule that is part water-loving and part oil-loving.
You will spot Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate in products that need to keep oil and water evenly mixed such as facial moisturizers, eye creams, lightweight lotions, creamy sunscreens, sheet mask essences and gentle cleansing balms. Its skin-conditioning side also makes it popular in soothing or anti-aging formulas where a smooth, soft after-feel is important.
Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves more than one role, giving formulators a versatile tool for creating stable, pleasant-feeling products.
- Skin conditioning – Forms a light, breathable film that helps skin feel soft and supple while reducing moisture loss
- Emulsifying – Binds oil and water into a consistent mixture, preventing separation and ensuring each application delivers the same ratio of ingredients
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate
Thanks to its gentle, non-sensitizing profile, Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate suits most skin types including normal, dry, combination and sensitive skin. Oily and acne-prone users usually tolerate it well because the molecule is lightweight and leaves minimal residue, though very congestion-prone individuals may prefer to monitor how their skin responds in richer formulas.
The ingredient is derived from plant glycerin and seed oils so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian preferences. No animal-derived substances or by-products are involved in its manufacture.
Current safety data do not flag any specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate is applied topically in cosmetic concentrations. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should confirm product choices with a healthcare professional to be certain the overall formula meets their individual needs.
The ester does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so there is no increased risk of photosensitivity. It also plays well with other common skincare actives and preservatives, giving formulators broad compatibility.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate vary from person to person. The points below note potential reactions, but most users experience none of these when the ingredient is used at standard cosmetic levels.
- Mild skin irritation – rare transient redness or stinging, more likely on already compromised skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis – very uncommon itch or rash in individuals sensitive to fatty acid esters
- Breakouts – possible clogged pores in skins extremely prone to comedones if the overall formula is heavy or occlusive
If any irritation or unexpected reaction occurs discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate has a large molecular size and a glycerin-rich backbone that sits lightly on skin, so it is unlikely to clog pores. The long fatty acid tails can add a touch of richness yet they are balanced by the water-loving glycerin segments which keep the overall feel breathable. Most people who break out easily tolerate it well, though extremely acne-prone users may want lighter formulas overall.
Its low rating also reflects the very small percentages (usually 1-3%) used in finished products, further reducing any pore-blocking risk.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate conditions skin and stabilizes emulsions. The glycerin portion attracts water while the fatty acid portion grabs onto oils, letting it pull the two phases together for a smooth blend that feels silky rather than greasy. This dual nature also leaves a soft film that helps skin stay hydrated.
It is not the most famous ingredient on shelves but formulators appreciate it as a gentle plant-derived alternative to harsher surfactants so its presence is growing in moisturizers, sunscreens and cleansing balms.
Current research shows it to be safe for topical use with a very low risk of irritation or sensitization. As with any new product, it is smart to do a quick patch test to make sure your skin agrees with the full formula.