What Is Polyglyceryl-10 Dimer Dilinoleate/Stearate/Hydroxystearate?
Polyglyceryl-10 Dimer Dilinoleate/Stearate/Hydroxystearate is a plant-derived ingredient made by linking ten glycerin units to fatty acids from sources like linoleic, stearic and hydroxystearic acid. The result is a large molecule that behaves like a lightweight oil. Chemists developed this type of polyglyceryl ester in the early 2000s as a greener alternative to petroleum-based emollients and to replace silicones in some formulas. Production starts with vegetable glycerin that is heated and condensed into polyglycerin-10, which is then reacted with the three fatty acids to form an easy-to-spread paste or liquid. Because it is mild and biodegradable it shows up in face creams, body lotions, makeup primers, cleansing balms, masks and baby care products where a soft non-greasy feel is desired.
Polyglyceryl-10 Dimer Dilinoleate/Stearate/Hydroxystearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skincare and makeup this ingredient mainly supports skin feel and moisture levels.
- Skin conditioning: Forms a light protective film that helps hold water in the skin so it feels smoother and more supple
- Emollient: Fills in tiny gaps on the skin surface giving products a silky glide and reducing rough patches without leaving a heavy residue
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-10 Dimer Dilinoleate/Stearate/Hydroxystearate
This ingredient is gentle enough for all skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and sensitive because it hydrates without leaving a heavy or occlusive film. Very acne-prone skin can usually tolerate it since the molecule is large and unlikely to clog pores, though individual responses vary. It is plant derived, containing no animal by-products, so it suits vegans and vegetarians when the finished formula is also free of animal ingredients. There are no specific warnings against use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding; the ingredient sits mostly on the surface of the skin and is not known to penetrate deeply, but this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a doctor before adding new skincare. It does not cause photosensitivity and can be worn day or night without raising sun sensitivity. The ingredient is also mild enough for use around the eyes and on baby skin when properly formulated.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical use of Polyglyceryl-10 Dimer Dilinoleate/Stearate/Hydroxystearate differ from person to person. The points below outline potential reactions, but most people will not experience them when the ingredient is used at appropriate levels in a well-formulated product.
- Mild skin irritation or redness in very sensitive individuals
- Allergic contact dermatitis in the rare case of a specific allergy to one of the fatty acid components
- Temporary stinging if the product enters the eyes
- Occasional clogged pores or breakouts in highly reactive, acne-prone skin
If you notice any of these effects stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5 – The polyglyceryl backbone makes the molecule bulky so it tends to sit on top of skin and rinse away easily, which keeps its pore-clogging potential low. While it is built from fatty acids, they are esterified to a large hydrophilic structure that reduces their ability to pack inside follicles. Most acne-prone users should have no issues, though exceptionally reactive skin may still prefer lighter textures.
At typical use levels in creams, balms or makeup, this ingredient is considered suitable for those prone to breakouts.
Formulas that pair it with very heavy oils or waxes could raise the overall comedogenicity, so look at the full ingredient list if congestion is a concern.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-10 Dimer Dilinoleate/Stearate/Hydroxystearate works as a skin-conditioning emollient that locks in moisture, smooths rough patches and gives products a soft glide. It does this by forming a light, breathable film made possible by its mix of plant-derived fatty acids linked to a water-loving polyglyceryl chain.
You will see the ingredient more often in eco-minded formulas that aim to swap out silicones or mineral oil, though it is still a niche choice compared with classic emollients like caprylic/capric triglyceride.
Overall safety data and user experience show it to be gentle, non-sensitising and low on the comedogenic scale. As with any new skincare product a quick patch test is wise so you can rule out personal sensitivities before full-face use.