What Is Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate/Oleate/Sebacate?
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate/Oleate/Sebacate is a plant-derived ingredient created by joining ten glycerin molecules together, then lightly attaching them to a mix of lauric, oleic and sebacic fatty acids that come from natural oils such as coconut, sunflower and castor. The result is a mild, water-loving ester that can also blend well with oils, making it useful in modern “clean beauty” formulas that avoid traditional PEG surfactants.
Its use in cosmetics grew as brands looked for biodegradable alternatives to ethoxylated emulsifiers during the early 2010s. Manufacturers first polymerize renewable glycerin under controlled heat to form polyglycerin-10, then perform an esterification step where the selected fatty acids bond to the polymer. The balance of short lauric chains, longer oleic chains and the dicarboxylic sebacic acid gives the molecule flexibility in both cleansing and moisturizing products.
You will typically find Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate/Oleate/Sebacate in micellar waters, gentle facial cleansers, makeup removers, sheet masks, lightweight lotions, baby care creams, scalp tonics and sprayable moisturizers where a non-greasy feel and transparent look are important.
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate/Oleate/Sebacate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This versatile ingredient earns its place on an ingredient list by performing more than one helpful job
- Emollient: It softens and smooths skin by creating a light, breathable layer that traps water without feeling heavy, leaving the surface supple and comfortable
- Solubilizing agent: It helps oils, fragrances and active ingredients disperse evenly in water-based formulas which keeps products clear, stable and easy to rinse off without residue
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate/Oleate/Sebacate
This ingredient is considered skin friendly for almost everyone. Its light emollient film suits normal, oily, combination and even sensitive skin because it does not leave a heavy residue or clog pores. Very dry skin may still want a richer oil or butter on top for extra cushioning but the ester itself will not strip moisture.
Because the raw materials come from plant oils and no animal products or by-products are used during manufacture, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate/Oleate/Sebacate is acceptable for both vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data show no issues for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run all skincare choices past a qualified doctor just to be on the safe side.
The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so there is no added risk of photosensitivity. It is also fragrance free and gluten free, which can be reassuring if those are concerns.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate/Oleate/Sebacate can vary from person to person. The side effects below are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild redness or itching on very reactive skin
- Transient stinging if the product gets into the eyes
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to glycerin based polymers
- Isolated cases of small breakouts if used in an unusually heavy formula on acne prone skin
If any discomfort or unexpected reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate/Oleate/Sebacate is mostly water loving and forms only a thin breathable layer on skin, so it does not trap oil and dead cells the way heavier oils or waxes can. Its large, partly water soluble structure rinses away well and has shown little tendency to block pores in lab tests or real-world use. It is therefore generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts, though the finished formula and other ingredients still matter. If used in an unusually rich product or combined with highly occlusive oils it could contribute to congestion, but on its own the risk is low.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate/Oleate/Sebacate acts as both an emollient and a solubilizer. As an emollient it smooths and softens by laying down a light moisture-locking film that feels weightless. As a solubilizer it grabs onto oil based ingredients and helps them mix into water so cleansers, toners and lotions stay clear and stable without the need for harsher surfactants.
The ingredient is gaining steady popularity in PEG-free and eco-minded formulas because it is plant derived, biodegradable and gentle, though it is still less common than long-standing emulsifiers like Polysorbate 20.
Current data show it to be very safe for topical use with only rare reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new skin care product, doing a quick patch test is a smart way to make sure your skin agrees with it before applying liberally.