What Is Polyglyceryl-10 Pentahydroxystearate?
Polyglyceryl-10 Pentahydroxystearate is a plant-derived ingredient made by linking ten glycerin units to a fatty acid called hydroxystearic acid. The result is a pentaester, which means five ester bonds hold the pieces together. Glycerin usually comes from vegetable oils like coconut or soybean while hydroxystearic acid is often sourced from castor oil. The ingredient was first explored in the 1990s as brands searched for gentler alternatives to petroleum-based emulsifiers. Its mildness and biodegradability helped it gain popularity in natural and clean beauty lines during the 2000s.
Manufacturing starts with converting vegetable oil into glycerin. Multiple glycerin molecules are then condensed to create decaglycerol. This large glycerin backbone is reacted with hydroxystearic acid under heat and vacuum in the presence of food-grade catalysts. The finished material is filtered and purified to remove any unreacted parts, leaving a soft pasty solid that melts easily into oils and water.
Because it can hold oil and water together while softening the skin, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentahydroxystearate appears in moisturizers, face masks, cleansing balms, sunscreen lotions, baby care creams and many makeup products such as foundations or creamy blushes.
Polyglyceryl-10 Pentahydroxystearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasker improves both the feel of a formula and how well it stays mixed
- Emollient: Forms a thin comforting layer on the surface of skin which helps smooth rough patches and reduce moisture loss leaving skin soft and supple
- Emulsifying: Binds oil and water into a stable mixture so creams stay uniform, look elegant and deliver active ingredients evenly without separating
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-10 Pentahydroxystearate
Thanks to its gentle nature and light skin feel Polyglyceryl-10 Pentahydroxystearate is considered suitable for every skin type including dry, normal, combination and oily. It rarely leaves a greasy residue so even acne-prone skin can usually tolerate it well. Sensitive skin tends to respond positively because the ingredient is free of fragrances and harsh solvents.
The material is sourced from plant oils and contains no animal by-products which makes it appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. Most suppliers also avoid animal testing in line with current cosmetic regulations and cruelty-free standards.
No studies suggest a special risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when using this ingredient topically. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should talk with a healthcare professional before starting new skincare just to be safe.
Polyglyceryl-10 Pentahydroxystearate does not cause photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also odorless and has a low tendency to stain clothing or react with other common skincare actives.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical use of Polyglyceryl-10 Pentahydroxystearate differ from person to person. The points below list potential reactions yet most people will not encounter them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis for individuals with a specific sensitivity to glycerin derivatives
- Temporary clogged pores if applied in heavy layers on skin already prone to congestion
If any discomfort swelling or persistent irritation occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare provider.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Polyglyceryl-10 Pentahydroxystearate is a large, water-loving molecule that sits lightly on skin and rinses away easily, so it has very little tendency to block pores. Its glycerin backbone attracts water while the fatty side supplies slip, creating a balanced texture that rarely traps oil or dead cells inside follicles.
Because of this low score it is generally considered suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts. Only extremely heavy formulas or over-application might pose a minor risk of congestion.
Keep in mind that the full product matters—wax levels, other oils and how often you layer can all influence whether pores stay clear.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-10 Pentahydroxystearate works as an emollient and an emulsifier. The glycerin chain attracts moisture and spreads smoothly, softening rough spots, while the fatty acid portion anchors into oils so it can link oil and water together and keep creams stable.
It shows up most in clean beauty moisturizers, makeup melts and gentle baby balms. It is not as famous as classic emulsifiers like cetearyl alcohol yet formulators who want plant based options rate it highly for its mildness and eco credentials.
Safety data label it as low risk with only rare reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new cosmetic ingredient you should patch test a small area first to confirm personal compatibility before making it a regular part of your routine.