What Is Polyglyceryl-10 Polyhydroxystearate?
Polyglyceryl-10 Polyhydroxystearate is a plant-derived ingredient made by linking ten glycerin units, then attaching them to hydroxystearic acid that is usually sourced from castor or other vegetable oils. The result is a large, skin-friendly molecule that loves both water and oil, which is why formulators reach for it when they need a gentle emulsifier.
The cosmetic world started looking at polyglyceryl ingredients in the late 1990s, when brands wanted options that were renewable and PEG-free. By combining naturally sourced glycerin with fatty acids, chemists created a new class of emulsifiers that offered reliable performance without the need for ethoxylation. Today this ingredient is produced through a two-step process: first glycerin molecules are heated under vacuum to form a polyglycerin “backbone,” and second this backbone is esterified with hydroxystearic acid. The resulting material is biodegradable and can carry the “nature-derived” label, which is a big selling point for clean beauty lines.
You will spot Polyglyceryl-10 Polyhydroxystearate in many water-and-oil formulas such as sunscreens, moisturizers, makeup removers, BB creams, cleansing balms and rich facial masks. It is especially popular in high-SPF products because it can hold together heavy loads of mineral UV filters while keeping the texture light and non-greasy.
Polyglyceryl-10 Polyhydroxystearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
The main job of Polyglyceryl-10 Polyhydroxystearate is to act as an emulsifying agent. By sitting at the interface of water and oil, it keeps the two phases blended so your lotion or cream stays smooth from the first pump to the last. A stable emulsion delivers consistent active levels, feels pleasant on the skin and reduces the need for extra preservatives, all of which improve both product performance and user experience.
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-10 Polyhydroxystearate
This emulsifier is considered safe and gentle for virtually every skin type including dry, sensitive, oily and combination skin because it has a large molecular size that stays on the surface and does not disturb the skin barrier. It does not add oiliness or strip moisture so it suits people prone to breakouts as well as those dealing with dryness.
The raw materials come from plants, typically glycerin from vegetable sources and hydroxystearic acid derived from castor or similar oils. No animal by-products are involved which makes it acceptable for both vegetarians and vegans.
Current safety data show no special risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should ask a doctor before starting a new skincare product just to be safe.
Polyglyceryl-10 Polyhydroxystearate is not known to cause photosensitivity and it has no documented issues when used in sunlight-exposed products like sunscreens. There are also no reported interactions with common active ingredients such as retinoids or vitamin C.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to any cosmetic ingredient can differ from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for most users when the product is well-formulated.
- Mild skin redness or stinging in very sensitive individuals
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis for those with a specific sensitivity to castor-derived ingredients
- Temporary eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
If you notice any discomfort swelling or persistent irritation after using a product that contains Polyglyceryl-10 Polyhydroxystearate stop using it right away and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5. Polyglyceryl-10 Polyhydroxystearate sits mostly on the surface, has a large molecular size and is not an oily fatty acid in the traditional sense. Because it does not sink into pores or add extra grease it has a very low chance of clogging them. People who are prone to acne or breakouts can usually use it without trouble.
Formulators often choose this emulsifier for high-SPF mineral sunscreens that target acne-prone skin, which further supports its low comedogenic profile. Of course the finished product’s full formula and texture also play a role in whether a product feels pore-clogging, but this single ingredient ranks on the safer end.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-10 Polyhydroxystearate’s main job is to keep water and oil mixed so creams, lotions and sunscreens stay smooth and stable. It works by parking itself at the water-oil line then holding the two parts together, which means the product spreads evenly and delivers its active ingredients the same way every time.
Clean beauty brands and mainstream companies alike reach for this plant-derived emulsifier because it is biodegradable, PEG-free and gentle. You will find it in everything from cleansing balms to BB creams with SPF, though it is still less famous than classic emulsifiers like polysorbates or lecithin.
Current data show it is safe for most skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone. It has a very low comedogenic rating, a low irritation risk and no known links to hormone disruption. Still, every formula is different and skin can react in unexpected ways, so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains this or any other unfamiliar ingredient.