What Is Polyglyceryl-10/Sebacic Acid/Shea Butter Crosspolymer?
Polyglyceryl-10/Sebacic Acid/Shea Butter Crosspolymer is a plant-derived ingredient created by linking together three components: polyglycerin-10, sebacic acid, and shea butter. Polyglycerin-10 comes from vegetable oils and brings multiple glycerin units that love water, sebacic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid often sourced from castor oil, and shea butter is the rich fat pressed from shea tree nuts. When these three are reacted under controlled heat and vacuum, they form a gentle, flexible network called a crosspolymer. This network marries the water-grabbing talent of polyglycerin with the smoothing feel of shea butter, resulting in an ingredient that can hydrate skin while giving formulas a soft, non-greasy touch.
Crosslinked polymers like this rose to popularity in the early 2000s as brands searched for plant-based alternatives to petrolatum and silicone. By fusing familiar moisturizing agents into a single, larger molecule, chemists managed to create ingredients that stay put on skin yet rinse away easily, making them ideal for modern, rinse-off or leave-on skincare.
The manufacturing process usually starts by heating polyglycerin-10 and sebacic acid until they react, then adding melted refined shea butter to complete the network. The result is a semi-solid or pasty material that disperses well in water or oil phases, depending on the formula’s needs.
You will often spot this crosspolymer in moisturizing creams, overnight masks, soothing serums, anti-aging lotions, makeup primers, and even gentle cleansers. Its ability to lock in water without a heavy feel helps brands create lighter, more comfortable products that still deliver deep hydration.
Polyglyceryl-10/Sebacic Acid/Shea Butter Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multi-tasking ingredient offers two main benefits in skincare formulas
- Humectant – attracts and holds water from the environment or deeper skin layers, boosting immediate hydration and giving skin a plumper, smoother look
- Skin conditioning – forms a light, breathable film that softens rough patches and improves the overall feel of a product, helping it glide on smoothly without leaving an oily residue
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-10/Sebacic Acid/Shea Butter Crosspolymer
This ingredient is generally suitable for all skin types. Dry and mature skin benefit most from its water-binding ability while oily and combination skin appreciate that it hydrates without a greasy after-feel. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because it is free of fragrance and common sensitizers. People with a diagnosed nut allergy should proceed cautiously since shea butter is derived from shea tree nuts, although the risk of an allergic response is low due to the refining process.
Because every raw material in the crosspolymer is plant sourced, the ingredient itself is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. Still, if animal-derived additives are present elsewhere in a finished product it may not meet strict vegan standards so label-readers should verify the full formula.
No data suggest any specific risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when this ingredient is applied topically in cosmetic concentrations. It is regarded as non-systemic and unlikely to penetrate deeply, yet this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review new skincare with a qualified healthcare professional.
Polyglyceryl-10/Sebacic Acid/Shea Butter Crosspolymer is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more reactive to sunlight. Standard daytime sun protection is still recommended for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to topical ingredients vary. The points below outline potential side effects that have been reported or are theoretically possible, but most users experience none of these issues when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild skin irritation – rare stinging or redness, usually short-lived
- Allergic contact dermatitis – uncommon rash or itching in individuals sensitive to shea nut proteins or castor oil derivatives
- Clogged pores – possible in very acne-prone skin if the rest of the formula is rich or occlusive
If any adverse reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist or worsen.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Although part of the molecule comes from shea butter, the butter is chemically bound into a large crosspolymer that no longer behaves like pure shea fat. The polyglycerin portion is completely non oily and sebacic acid is a light dicarboxylic acid, so the finished ingredient sits lightly on skin and rinses off more easily than traditional plant butters. Because it forms a breathable film rather than an occlusive layer, it is unlikely to block pores under normal use. For that reason it earns a low comedogenic score of 1.
Overall this ingredient is considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts, provided the rest of the formula is also low in pore-clogging oils.
Keep in mind that the final comedogenicity of any product depends on the whole recipe and not just one raw material. Heavy waxes or oils used alongside the crosspolymer could still tip the balance toward congestion.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-10/Sebacic Acid/Shea Butter Crosspolymer acts as both a humectant and a skin-conditioning agent. The polyglycerin portion pulls water toward the skin surface for instant hydration while the crosslinked network created with sebacic acid and shea butter lays down a thin, flexible film that smooths rough texture and improves slip without greasy residue.
It shows up most often in modern moisturizers, hydrating serums and gentle cleansers as brands look for plant based options that can replace heavier petrolatum or silicone. It is not yet a household name but formulators appreciate its versatility and clean-label appeal so its presence is growing.
Safety profiles list it as low risk for irritation, sensitization or pore clogging when used at normal cosmetic levels. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product containing this or any other unfamiliar ingredient before full face application.