What Is Polyglyceryl-10 Sesquistearate?
Polyglyceryl-10 Sesquistearate is an ester blend created by linking stearic acid, a fatty acid most often sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut, with polyglycerin-10, a chain of ten glycerin units that usually comes from vegetable glycerin. The result is a mild, oil-loving yet water-friendly ingredient that helps bridge the gap between water and oil in a formula.
Interest in this material grew in the late 1990s when brands started looking for alternatives to traditional ethoxylated emulsifiers such as PEGs. Its plant-derived building blocks and biodegradable profile quickly made it a staple in natural and clean beauty launches.
Manufacturers typically produce Polyglyceryl-10 Sesquistearate by heating stearic acid with polyglycerin-10 in the presence of a food-grade catalyst. The process bonds the two materials together, then any leftover catalysts are removed so the final ingredient is skin-friendly and compliant with cosmetic regulations worldwide.
You will spot Polyglyceryl-10 Sesquistearate in lotions, creams, cleansing balms, facial masks, baby care formulas, SPF products, makeup removers and lightweight serums where it helps keep textures stable and pleasant.
Polyglyceryl-10 Sesquistearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasker supports both the form and feel of many personal care products.
- Emulsifying: It binds water and oil so a cream or lotion stays smooth without separating. A stable emulsion feels silkier, absorbs more evenly and extends the shelf life of the product.
- Cleansing: Its amphiphilic nature lifts dirt, sunscreen and makeup from the skin then rinses away with water. This makes it valuable in gentle cleansers and micellar products that need to dissolve oils without stripping the skin.
Thanks to its gentle nature and balanced oil-to-water affinity, Polyglyceryl-10 Sesquistearate works well for most skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and even sensitive skin. Very acne-prone individuals who know they react to fatty acid derivatives might want to monitor their skin closely, but in the majority of formulas the ingredient is present at low levels that rarely trigger congestion.
The stearic acid portion can be sourced from plants or animals. Most cosmetic suppliers use palm or coconut oil so the ingredient is usually suitable for vegans and vegetarians, but anyone following a strict lifestyle should look for a vegan certification or confirm the source with the brand.
Current safety assessments show no special restrictions for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice and those who are expecting or nursing should share any skincare routine with their healthcare provider to be safe.
Polyglyceryl-10 Sesquistearate does not increase sun sensitivity and can be used day or night. It is also mild enough for leave-on products and baby care formulas, making it a versatile option across age groups.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyglyceryl-10 Sesquistearate differ from person to person. The issues listed below are only potential outcomes; most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used at standard cosmetic levels.
- Transient stinging or redness: may occur on very sensitive or compromised skin
- Contact dermatitis: rare allergic reaction to stearic acid derivatives
- Breakouts: possible in individuals extremely prone to fatty acid related blemishes
- Eye irritation: tearing or discomfort if the raw ingredient or a concentrated product accidentally gets into the eye
If any discomfort, rash or persistent breakout develops stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Although it contains stearic acid, the fatty acid is partially neutralised by being bound to the water-loving polyglyceryl backbone, which keeps the molecule bulky and partly water soluble. Combined with the low levels typically used in formulas, this structure means it has only a slight chance of blocking pores compared with plain oils or waxes.
Most people prone to acne or congestion can use products containing Polyglyceryl-10 Sesquistearate without problems.
Keep in mind that the overall formulation, concentration and presence of other rich ingredients will influence how any product behaves on breakout-prone skin.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-10 Sesquistearate is mainly an emulsifier and gentle cleanser. Its polyglyceryl side attracts water while the stearate side grabs onto oils, letting it pull the two together so creams stay uniform and cleansers lift away dirt and makeup.
It shows up most in clean beauty launches, baby care and lightweight skincare, though it is still less common than older PEG emulsifiers. Formulators appreciate the plant-derived profile and biodegradable nature, so its use is steadily rising.
Safety data rates it as low risk for irritation or sensitisation and there are no special restrictions for pregnancy or daily use. Still, skin can react unpredictably, so patch testing any new product that contains this ingredient is a smart precaution.