What Is Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer?
Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer is a plant-derived ingredient created by linking polyglyceryl-2 (a short chain of glycerin units) with isostearic acid and with dimer dilinoleic acid, which comes from the natural fatty acid linoleic acid. The result is a large, oil-loving molecule that behaves a lot like a smooth, cushiony oil but stays put on the skin better than simple oils.
In the early 2000s formulators started looking for alternatives to petroleum-based thickening agents and discovered that this copolymer could do the job while meeting the growing demand for ingredients that come from renewable resources. Since then it has become a quiet workhorse in many modern “clean beauty” and sensitive-skin formulas.
The copolymer is made through a controlled esterification process. First, glycerin is heated to link two units into polyglyceryl-2. This is then reacted with isostearic acid and with dimerized linoleic acid under vacuum and mild heat, forming long, branched chains that give the finished material its cushioning texture and film-forming ability.
You will spot it most often in rich moisturizers, barrier creams, makeup primers, long-wear foundations, creamy sunscreens, lip balms, overnight masks and soothing ointment-style treatments where a silky feel and lasting comfort are needed.
Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multi-tasking copolymer improves both the feel and staying power of a product
- Emollient – softens rough patches, smooths flaky spots and leaves a velvety finish that makes skin feel nurtured
- Skin protecting – forms a light breathable film that helps shield skin from moisture loss and everyday irritants so the face feels comfortable longer
- Viscosity controlling – thickens oil phases and keeps water-and-oil mixtures from separating which gives creams and balms a rich, stable texture that spreads evenly
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer
This velvety emollient suits most skin types. Dry, mature or easily irritated skin tends to love its cushioning feel and protective film. Normal and combination skin usually tolerate it well, though those who are very oily or highly acne prone might find rich formulas that rely on it feel a bit heavy if layered thickly. If breakouts are already a concern choose lighter products that use the copolymer in small amounts.
The ingredient is produced from plant derived glycerin and fatty acids and contains no animal by products so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
No evidence links topical use of Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer to risks during pregnancy or breastfeeding. It stays on the surface of the skin and is not known to reach systemic circulation. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should discuss all skincare products with a qualified healthcare provider before use.
The copolymer does not cause photosensitivity and can be worn day or night. It also plays well with common actives like vitamin C, niacinamide and retinoids because it sits in the oil phase and does not interfere with their function.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer vary from person to person. The points below cover potential reactions but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild pore congestion in very oily or acne prone skin when used in heavy balms or layered with multiple occlusive products
- Rare cases of contact irritation such as slight redness or itching, typically linked to individual sensitivity to fatty acid esters
- Allergic contact dermatitis in extremely rare instances for individuals already sensitised to similar esters
If you notice persistent irritation, breakouts or any other unexpected reaction stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2/5 Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer is built from fatty acid chains that can sit on the surface of skin and create a light occlusive film, yet the molecule is large and less likely to seep into pores compared with simple plant oils. This keeps its clogging potential on the lower side but not zero. Most people will not break out from it, though those with very oily or highly congestion-prone skin may notice minor issues if they apply it in thick, balm-like layers or combine it with several other heavy ingredients.
Suitable for acne-prone users in lightweight formulas, but richer products featuring this copolymer as a key thickener might feel too occlusive for skins that plug easily.
The ingredient is often blended with silica, waxes or volatile silicones in color cosmetics; these partners, not the copolymer itself, are sometimes what tip a formula into pore-clogging territory.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer serves three main roles: it softens and conditions as an emollient, shields skin against moisture loss by forming a breathable film and stabilizes viscosity so creams stay rich and uniform. It achieves these tasks thanks to its long branched chain structure that behaves like a cushiony oil yet is solid enough to thicken and lock in hydration.
While not a household name, it has quietly grown popular among formulators seeking plant-based alternatives to petrolatum and silicones in barrier creams, long-wear makeup and nourishing balms.
Topical safety data and decades of use show a very low risk of irritation or sensitization, making it a generally safe choice for most skin types. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is wise to perform a quick patch test when trying a fresh product that contains it just to be sure your skin agrees.