What Is Polyglyceryl-20 Docosabehenate/Isostearate?
Polyglyceryl-20 Docosabehenate/Isostearate is a plant-derived ingredient created by joining a chain of 20 glycerin units to a mix of behenic and isostearic fatty acids that come from vegetable oils such as rapeseed and coconut. This union gives a mild, skin-friendly substance that looks waxy and feels silky. Modern formulators began turning to it in the early 2000s when consumers started asking for alternatives to petroleum-based emulsifiers. To make it, manufacturers first produce polyglycerin by heating glycerin molecules so they link together. They then react this polyglycerin with purified behenic and isostearic acids under carefully controlled heat and vacuum, forming a docosaester that is both oil-loving and water-loving. The finished material appears in a wide range of products including facial moisturizers, cleansing balms, sheet masks, anti-aging serums, baby lotions, sun care creams and long-wear makeup.
Polyglyceryl-20 Docosabehenate/Isostearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient brings several perks to everyday formulas
- Skin Conditioning: leaves the surface soft and smooth while helping other moisturizing ingredients cling to the skin longer
- Emollient: fills in tiny gaps between skin cells giving a supple, cushioned feel that can lessen the look of dryness
- Cleansing: loosens makeup, sunscreen and excess oil so they rinse away easily without stripping natural moisture
- Emulsifying: binds oil and water into a stable mix so lotions and creams stay blended silky and uniform during use
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-20 Docosabehenate/Isostearate
Polyglyceryl-20 Docosabehenate/Isostearate is generally well tolerated by all major skin types including normal, dry, oily and combination. Its lightweight emollient nature helps dry skin feel comfortable without leaving a heavy film that could bother oily or acne prone complexions. Sensitive skin usually gets along with it too because it is free of common irritants like fragrance and alcohol. There are no specific skin types that must avoid this ingredient though anyone with a known allergy to behenic or isostearic fatty acids should proceed cautiously.
The ingredient is sourced from vegetable oils and contains no animal-derived components so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
No studies have flagged Polyglyceryl-20 Docosabehenate/Isostearate as unsafe during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and expectant or nursing mothers should review any skincare product with their healthcare provider to be extra safe.
It does not increase skin sensitivity to sunlight so users do not have to worry about added photosensitivity. The ingredient is also odorless and has a low molecular weight which means it is unlikely to clog pores or leave a greasy residue.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Polyglyceryl-20 Docosabehenate/Isostearate can vary from person to person. The following is a list of potential side effects which are uncommon in properly formulated products.
- Mild redness or irritation in individuals with an existing sensitivity to fatty acids
- Temporary stinging if applied to broken or very compromised skin barriers
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching or small bumps
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a qualified healthcare professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Polyglyceryl-20 Docosabehenate/Isostearate is built on a highly water-loving polyglycerin backbone that keeps the fatty acid portions from forming the heavy film typically linked with clogged pores. Studies and supplier data describe it as lightweight and readily washable, so it is unlikely to block follicles when used at the usual 1 – 5 percent found in creams and cleansers. Its low rating means it is generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Only at very high concentrations or when combined with heavier waxes could the risk inch higher, but that is uncommon in commercial formulas.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-20 Docosabehenate/Isostearate works as a skin conditioner, emollient, cleanser and emulsifier. The polyglycerin portion grabs water while the behenic and isostearic fatty acids grip oil, letting the ingredient sit at the oil-water interface where it softens skin, fills in microscopic gaps, lifts away makeup and keeps emulsions from separating. Although not yet a household name it is gaining traction with formulators who want plant-based alternatives to petrolatum or PEG emulsifiers, especially in clean beauty and baby care lines.
Available safety reviews and decades of use show a low risk of irritation or sensitization, so most people can enjoy its silky finish without concern. As with any new product a quick patch test on a small area is still wise to rule out individual sensitivities.