What Is Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate?
Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate is a plant-derived ingredient made by joining Polyglycerin-20, a chain of glycerin units, with a mix of two fatty acids: behenic acid from sources like rapeseed or peanut oil and lauric acid commonly obtained from coconut or palm kernel oil. The result is a large, mildly waxy molecule that mixes well with both oils and water.
The idea of linking glycerin to fatty acids is not new. Soapmakers noticed long ago that glycerin-fat combos could clean while soothing the skin. Modern green chemistry refined this concept in the 1990s, leading to safer, PEG-free emulsifiers. Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate entered cosmetic catalogs in the early 2000s as formulators searched for palm-free and non-ethoxylated alternatives.
Manufacture starts with food-grade glycerin. Through heat and an alkaline catalyst, twenty glycerin molecules are merged into Polyglycerin-20. This backbone is then esterified with behenic and lauric acids under vacuum. The process is solvent-free, creating a biodegradable ingredient with low irritation potential.
You will most often spot Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate in cream or milk cleansers, makeup removers, lightweight moisturizers, baby lotions, sheet masks, sunscreens and leave-on hair treatments. Its ability to soften skin while stabilizing water-oil blends makes it a versatile choice in both natural and dermatological lines.
Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multi-tasking ingredient brings several perks to beauty formulas:
- Skin conditioning: Forms a breathable layer that keeps moisture in leaving skin feeling smooth and calm
- Emollient: Fills in tiny gaps on the skin surface creating a soft touch without a greasy after-feel
- Cleansing: Helps lift away makeup excess oil and daily grime making rinse-off products more effective yet gentle
- Emulsifying: Binds water and oil phases together so creams lotions and milks stay stable with a pleasant texture
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate
Thanks to its light non-greasy texture and very low irritation profile this ingredient suits nearly every skin type. Dry and mature skin appreciate its emollient cushion while normal and combination skin enjoy the soft finish that does not feel heavy. Oily or acne-prone users usually tolerate it well because it helps dissolve excess sebum and has a low tendency to clog pores. Sensitive skin generally does fine since the molecule is free from fragrance solvents and ethoxylated groups that commonly trigger flare-ups. The only group that may want to be cautious is anyone with a known allergy to rapeseed peanut coconut or palm derivatives because trace residues of those source oils could remain.
Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate is produced entirely from plant oils and glycerin so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal-derived feedstocks or by-products are involved in its manufacture.
Current safety data show no reproductive or developmental concerns which means products containing this emulsifier are generally considered safe for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said this information is not medical advice and expectant or nursing mothers should confirm any skincare routine with their healthcare provider to be sure it fits their personal circumstances.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity and can be used day or night alongside sunscreens or actives without raising the risk of sun reactions. It is also fragrance-free gluten-free and biodegradable which may be relevant to people following specific lifestyle or environmental preferences.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects though most users experience none of them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild skin irritation: temporary redness stinging or itching usually linked to very sensitive or compromised skin barriers
- Contact allergy: rare cases of dermatitis in individuals allergic to behenic or lauric acid sources such as peanut or coconut
- Eye discomfort: slight burning or watering if a cleansing milk or sunscreen containing the ingredient gets into the eyes
- Breakouts in highly acne-prone skin: uncommon but possible if layered with heavy occlusives that trap sweat and oil
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate scores low because its bulky polyglycerin backbone keeps it sitting on the surface rather than seeping into pores. The behenic portion is a long-chain fatty acid with little tendency to clog while the lauric part is offset by being locked in an ester, which reduces its free fatty acid activity. Most lab and consumer reports show minimal pimple formation even at higher use levels.
Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone skin in the vast majority of formulas.
As always overall comedogenicity depends on the whole product. If the ingredient is paired with heavy waxes or butters the final texture could still feel occlusive, so read the full ingredient list if you are highly sensitive to congestion.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate works as a skin conditioner, emollient, cleanser and emulsifier. Its polyglycerin chain attracts water while the behenic and lauric tails bond with oils, letting it smooth rough spots, lock in light hydration, lift away makeup and keep water-oil blends from separating.
The ingredient is gaining popularity in eco-minded skincare yet it remains less common than classic emulsifiers like PEGs, mainly because it costs more and requires newer manufacturing methods. Still you will see it popping up in gentle cleansers sunscreens and baby lotions where a mild touch is valued.
Current data show it is low risk for irritation, non sensitising, biodegradable and vegan friendly, making it a safe pick for everyday use. That said every skin is different so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains it before full application.