What Is Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Laurate?
Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Laurate is a plant-derived ingredient created by linking twenty glycerin units to a blend of behenic acid taken from rapeseed oil and lauric acid commonly sourced from coconut or palm kernels. The result is a large, multitasking molecule that loves both oil and water, making it valuable in modern skin care. Its use grew in the late 1990s when brands began seeking alternatives to traditional petroleum-based emulsifiers. Manufacturers produce it through esterification, a process that bonds the natural fatty acids to the polyglycerin backbone under controlled heat and pressure. Because it is biodegradable and made from renewable feedstocks, it fits well with today’s clean beauty goals.
You will spot this ingredient in a variety of products that need stable, silky textures. Lightweight face moisturizers, rich body creams, cleansing balms, milk-to-oil makeup removers, sheet mask essences and even tinted sunscreens often rely on Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Laurate to keep their formulas smooth and comfortable on the skin.
Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Laurate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators reach for this multitasker because it offers several practical benefits at once.
- Skin Conditioning: Leaves a soft, supple finish so skin feels nourished after application
- Emollient: Adds slip and helps fill in tiny surface gaps which reduces roughness
- Cleansing: Loosens makeup grime and sunscreen so they can be rinsed away without harsh surfactants
- Emulsifying: Binds oil and water into a stable mixture preventing separation and extending product shelf life
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Laurate
This ingredient is generally considered friendly for all skin types. Dry, normal and combination skin benefit most from its smoothing emollient feel, while sensitive skin tends to tolerate it because it is free from common irritants like fragrance or essential oils. Oily or acne-prone users can usually enjoy it as well since it has a low tendency to clog pores, though anyone extremely prone to breakouts may prefer lightweight formulas where it appears farther down the ingredient list.
Because it is produced from plant oils and glycerin, Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Laurate is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal-derived substrates or by-products are used during manufacture.
The molecule does not contain known endocrine disruptors and stays mainly on the surface of the skin, so it is viewed as low-risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should still confirm product choices with a healthcare professional.
Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Laurate is not linked to photosensitivity and will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also plays well with most other cosmetic ingredients, including retinoids, acids and physical or chemical sunscreens, so routine layering is rarely an issue.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to topical Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Laurate can differ. The points below outline possible, though uncommon, reactions when the ingredient is used at appropriate levels in finished products. Most people will not encounter these issues.
- Mild redness or irritation in very sensitive individuals
- Light, temporary stinging if applied to broken or wind-chapped skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis for those with specific fatty acid sensitivities
- Slight pore congestion for users who are highly prone to comedones when the ingredient appears in rich, occlusive formulas
If any irritation, swelling or persistent breakout occurs, discontinue use and seek guidance from a qualified medical professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Although lauric acid on its own can be pore clogging, once it is chemically bonded to polyglycerin and behenic acid the resulting ester is far less likely to build up inside follicles. Its large size keeps most of the molecule on skin’s surface and it spreads in a thin, flexible film that allows normal oil flow. In real-world formulas it is usually used at low to moderate levels alongside lighter emollients, keeping the overall clogging risk minimal.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases.
If a product containing this ingredient feels heavy or sits on the skin for a long time, washing it off at day’s end can further lower any chance of congestion.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-20 Octadecabehenate/Laurate acts as an emollient, skin conditioner, mild cleanser and emulsifier. Its polyglycerin backbone grabs water while the attached fatty acids attract oil, letting it smooth rough patches, dissolve makeup and keep oil-and-water blends from separating.
While not as famous as ingredients like hyaluronic acid or squalane, it is quietly popular among formulators who want plant-based, PEG-free emulsifiers that give products a plush feel. You will often find it midway down ingredient lists of modern creams, cleansing balms and SPF hybrids.
Current safety data shows a low risk of irritation or systemic absorption so it is considered safe for routine use by most skin types. As with any new cosmetic, patch test on a small area first to be sure your skin agrees with it.