Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Stearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
Share:
Inside this article:

We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Stearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer?

Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Stearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer is a plant derived polymer created by linking together Polyglycerin-3 and Dilinoleic Acid, then capping the chain with a blend of capric, caprylic and stearic fatty acids. The result is a large, branched molecule that behaves like a lightweight oil yet feels dry and silky on skin. Chemists first explored this style of crosspolymer in the early 2000s while looking for greener alternatives to silicones and mineral oils. Because the raw materials come from natural fats and oils, the ingredient fits well into clean beauty formulas.

Manufacturing starts with glycerin from vegetable sources. Through controlled heating and dehydration, three glycerin units join to form Polyglycerin-3. This backbone is then reacted with Dilinoleic Acid, an unsaturated fatty acid from safflower or soybean oil, to build flexible links. Finally capric, caprylic and stearic acids are added to “cap” the ends, creating a stable three-dimensional network. The finished polymer is usually supplied as a soft paste or pourable liquid that disperses easily in oils and emulsions.

You will find Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Stearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer in moisturizers, face masks, body lotions, sunscreens, color cosmetics like foundations and lipsticks, and leave-on hair treatments where it boosts texture and long-lasting feel.

Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Stearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This versatile polymer improves both the performance and sensory qualities of many beauty products.

  • Film forming: Creates a breathable layer that helps active ingredients stay on the skin or hair longer, increasing their effectiveness and adding a soft smooth finish
  • Skin conditioning: Leaves skin feeling supple and nourished thanks to its fatty acid content which mimics the skin’s own lipids
  • Emollient: Softens rough patches, reduces water loss and imparts a silky, non greasy touch to creams, lotions and color products

Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Stearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer

This ingredient is generally considered suitable for all skin types including oily, combination, dry and sensitive because it delivers lightweight moisturization without a heavy or greasy feel. Those with very acne-prone skin might prefer to introduce it slowly since any oil-like emollient has the theoretical potential to contribute to clogged pores, though reports of this are rare.

The polymer is derived entirely from plant fats and oils so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian lifestyles and contains no animal sourced raw materials or by-products.

Current safety data show no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used topically in normal cosmetic concentrations. This statement is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all skincare products with a qualified healthcare professional to make sure they meet their personal needs.

Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Stearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known interactions with common actives like retinoids or acids, making it easy to layer within most routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects that could occur, though most users will not experience them when the product has been properly formulated and used as directed.

  • Mild skin irritation such as redness or stinging
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to any component fatty acids
  • Rare clogged pores or breakouts in highly acne-prone users
  • Eye irritation if the product migrates into the eyes

If you notice any of these reactions stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Although this crosspolymer contains fatty acid chains, the large branched structure keeps it from sinking deeply into pores like smaller pure oils might. It sits mostly on the surface forming a light film, so the likelihood of blocked pores is low. Formulation studies and user feedback rarely flag it as a breakout trigger, leading to the low score.

Because of this, most people prone to acne should be able to use products with Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Stearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer without added concern.

Keep in mind overall product composition matters too: if the polymer is blended with heavier occlusives the finished formula could still feel greasy or pore clogging even though this single ingredient is not.

Summary

Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Stearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer acts as a film former skin conditioner and emollient. Its plant based polyglycerin backbone links with fatty acids to create a flexible network that coats skin in a breathable layer, locks in moisture and delivers a smooth silky after-feel. The fatty portions mimic natural sebum helping to soften and replenish the skin’s lipid barrier while the polymer’s size prevents a heavy greasy residue.

Use of this ingredient has grown steadily in clean beauty and lightweight makeup although it is still less common than classic silicones or shea butter. Brands looking for vegan sustainable texturizers are driving its rising popularity.

Current safety data place it in the low risk category for topical use with only rare reports of irritation or clogged pores. As with any new product it is smart to perform a quick patch test to make sure your skin responds well before applying more broadly.

Was this article helpful?
More from Glooshi:
ADVERTISEMENT
Get all our top headlines in beauty.
Delivered right to your inbox each week. Zero spam, all goodness, opt-out at anytime.
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Get the latest beauty news, top product recommendations & brand-exclusive discount codes direct to your inbox.
Send good feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Send bad feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Search