What Is Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate?
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate is a plant derived ingredient created by joining glycerin molecules into a short chain then linking that chain to citric acid and stearic acid. The finished material is a diester, meaning two acid groups are attached to the glycerin backbone. Because the fatty part comes from stearic acid found in vegetable oils and the citric part comes from citrus fruits or fermented sugars, the ingredient is considered naturally sourced even though it is made through controlled chemical steps.
Its use in cosmetics grew in the early 2000s when brands began looking for alternatives to petroleum based emulsifiers and surfactants. Manufacturers discovered that binding citric and stearic acids to polyglycerin produced a mild, biodegradable ingredient that could replace traditional PEGs and sulfates without sacrificing performance.
Production starts with plant based glycerin that is heated to link three glycerin units together. Citric acid and stearic acid are then reacted with this polyglycerin under specific temperature and pH conditions, forming a stable diester. The resulting material looks like an off white wax that melts easily into oils and water.
You will most often see Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate in creams and lotions, facial cleansers, makeup removers, sunscreens, baby care products, sheet mask essences and light styling creams for hair. Formulators like it because it works in a wide pH range and feels lightweight on the skin.
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas this ingredient offers two main functions that improve product texture and performance
- Cleansing: When added to face washes or makeup removers it helps lift away dirt, oil and makeup while remaining gentle on the skin. Its mild nature means less risk of dryness compared to harsher surfactants
- Emulsifying: It binds water and oil into a stable mixture so creams stay smooth and do not separate. This gives lotions a light, non greasy feel and helps active ingredients spread evenly over the skin
This gentle ingredient suits most skin types, including sensitive, dry, oily and combination. Its lightweight feel makes it comfortable for acne prone skin while its fatty acid component helps prevent dryness in mature or dehydrated skin. The raw materials come from plant sources so products using it are generally considered vegan and vegetarian friendly, provided no other animal derived ingredients are added to the final formula.
Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals can typically use cosmetics containing Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate because it stays on the skin surface and is not known to penetrate deeply or interfere with hormones. That said, this information is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should share their full skincare routine with a qualified healthcare professional to be extra safe.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity and can be worn during the day without making skin more prone to sun damage. It is also mild enough for baby care products, which hints at its overall skin friendliness.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate vary from person to person. The following list outlines possible side effects that could occur, though most users will never experience them when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild redness or stinging in very reactive skin, usually brief and self limiting
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to citric or fatty acid derivatives
- Breakouts if the finished product is overly rich or combined with highly occlusive oils
- Eye irritation when a cleanser containing the ingredient is not thoroughly rinsed off
If any uncomfortable reaction develops stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Although Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate contains a fatty acid component from stearic acid, the acid is bound to a polyglycerin backbone and citrate groups, which greatly reduces its tendency to clog pores. Its lightweight, water dispersible structure rinses clean and does not leave a heavy film, so it is generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Formulas that pair it with very rich oils or butters could still feel too occlusive for some users, but the ingredient itself is considered low risk.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate works primarily as a gentle cleanser and an effective emulsifier. The polyglycerin portion attracts water while the stearic acid end loves oil, allowing it to lift away dirt and makeup and to hold water and oil together in smooth stable creams. The citrate groups help keep the molecule flexible so products spread easily and feel light on the skin.
It enjoys moderate popularity, especially among brands focused on plant based or PEG-free formulations, because it delivers dependable performance without relying on petroleum derivatives.
Overall safety is high. It is biodegradable, non sensitizing for most people and rarely linked to irritation. As with any new skincare ingredient it is smart to patch test a fresh product before full use to confirm personal tolerance.