What Is Polyglyceryl-3 Sorbityl Glycyrrhetinate?
Polyglyceryl-3 Sorbityl Glycyrrhetinate is a plant derived ingredient that brings together two well known natural sources. The first part comes from licorice root, where glycyrrhetinic acid is found. The second part is a blend of sorbitol, a sugar alcohol from fruits, and polyglycerin-3, a chain of glycerin units often made from plant oils. Chemists link these pieces in a gentle reaction to create a single, skin friendly molecule.
Licorice has been valued for soothing skin since ancient times, but raw glycyrrhetinic acid can be tricky to work with. By bonding it to polyglycerin and sorbitol, labs in the late 1990s discovered a way to make it water dispersible and more stable for modern formulas. The process typically involves esterification, where the glycyrrhetinic acid is reacted with the sorbitol ether of polyglycerin-3 under controlled heat and vacuum. The result is a mild, oil compatible liquid or soft paste that blends easily into creams and gels.
Because it is gentle, moisturizing and helps condition the skin barrier, you will spot Polyglyceryl-3 Sorbityl Glycyrrhetinate in a range of products such as daily moisturizers, sheet masks, anti aging serums, soothing after sun lotions, lightweight facial oils, tinted moisturizers and even some micellar cleansers.
Polyglyceryl-3 Sorbityl Glycyrrhetinate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient earns its place on an ingredient list by improving how a product feels and how your skin looks over time.
- Skin conditioning: It helps soften and smooth the skin surface, supports a healthy moisture balance and can calm areas that feel tight or irritated
- Emollient: It supplies a light cushion of lipids that fill in tiny gaps between skin cells so skin feels supple and comfortable without a heavy or greasy finish
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-3 Sorbityl Glycyrrhetinate
This gentle emollient suits most skin types including dry, balanced, combination, sensitive and even oily or acne prone skin because it is lightweight and non greasy. It has no known ingredients that commonly clog pores so it rarely troubles breakout prone complexions. There are no clear reasons it would be unsuitable for any specific skin type, though anyone with a known allergy to licorice derivatives should be cautious.
The molecule is made from plant sourced glycyrrhetinic acid, sorbitol and glycerin so it is appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. No animal by products or animal testing are involved in its typical supply chain.
Current safety data suggests it can be used during pregnancy or while breastfeeding, as it is applied topically and shows very low skin penetration. This is not medical advice and anyone pregnant or nursing should run all skincare choices past a qualified doctor to be on the safe side.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity so it can be worn day or night without boosting your risk of sunburn. It also layers well with common actives like niacinamide or hyaluronic acid without destabilising them.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyglyceryl-3 Sorbityl Glycyrrhetinate vary from person to person. The following are potential side effects that could occur, though most users will never experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild redness or itching in individuals sensitive to licorice compounds
- Contact dermatitis in rare cases where the skin reacts to the glycyrrhetinic portion of the molecule
- Stinging sensation if applied to broken or freshly exfoliated skin
- Eye irritation if the product migrates into the eyes before it is fully absorbed
If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5
Polyglyceryl-3 Sorbityl Glycyrrhetinate is built from lightweight, water dispersible components that do not form a heavy film on the skin. Its polyglycerin backbone is similar to glycerin which is famously non pore clogging, while the sorbitol and glycyrrhetinic portions are present in small, well balanced amounts. Together they create a molecule that leaves only a whisper of emollience, earning it a very low likelihood of blocking pores.
Suitable for acne prone or breakout prone skin.
Keep in mind the overall formula matters; if this ingredient is paired with richer oils or waxes, the finished product may feel heavier than the ingredient itself.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-3 Sorbityl Glycyrrhetinate acts mainly as a skin conditioning agent and a mild emollient. Its glycerin based structure attracts and holds water while the sorbitol ether offers light slip. The licorice derived glycyrrhetinic acid adds a soothing touch, so the molecule softens skin, supports the moisture barrier and calms minor discomfort.
You will not see it topping popularity charts like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide, but formulators appreciate its gentleness and versatility so it quietly appears in a growing number of creams, serums and masks aimed at sensitive or combination skin.
Current research and industry reviews rate it as safe for topical use with very low irritation potential. As with any new skincare ingredient, perform a simple patch test when trying a product that contains it to make sure your skin agrees.