What Is Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer?
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer is a plant-derived ingredient made by linking together small glycerin units and fatty acids. The fatty acids usually come from vegetable oils like soybean or sunflower while the glycerin often starts with crops such as corn or sugarcane. Chemically it is a copolymer, meaning two different building blocks are joined to create a larger stable molecule. In this case Dilinoleic acid is combined with a blend of stearic and isostearic acids then attached to polyglycerin-3.
The idea of using polyglycerin-based emulsifiers took off in the late 1990s when brands looked for alternatives to petroleum-based ingredients. Researchers found that chaining several glycerin units together made a mild skin-friendly backbone that could hold on to oils and water at the same time. By adding stearic, isostearic and dilinoleic acids the material became even better at protecting the skin and adjusting product thickness. Today it is produced through a two-step process: first fatty acids are reacted with polyglycerin-3 under controlled heat then the resulting ester is polymerized with dilinoleic acid to build the final copolymer.
You will most often spot Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer in creamy moisturizers, rich masks, anti-aging lotions, foundation primers and balms where a smooth cushiony feel is desired. It is also common in baby care and sensitive skin formulas because of its gentle profile.
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient improves both the feel and performance of many personal care products.
- Skin conditioning – forms a light protective film that helps lock in moisture leaving skin soft and comfortable
- Skin protecting – creates a barrier that shields the surface from dehydration and mild external stress helping reduce irritation
- Viscosity controlling – thickens and stabilizes emulsions so creams stay smooth and do not separate over time
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer
Thanks to its gentle plant based origin and low irritation profile this copolymer suits almost every skin type including dry normal combination and sensitive. Its light breathable film helps dry skin retain moisture yet is not so heavy that it overwhelms oilier complexions. Extremely acne prone users who react to any rich texture might prefer lighter gels but for the majority it poses little risk of congestion.
The ingredient is sourced from vegetable glycerin and plant oils rather than animal by-products so it aligns with both vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. Manufacturing does not rely on animal testing in most regions where it is sold though final product policies still vary by brand.
No evidence shows that topical use is unsafe for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the product is used as directed. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run new skincare products past a qualified doctor just to be on the safe side.
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer is not photosensitizing and will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It can actually support a sunscreen’s texture by keeping the formula uniform.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects yet most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild redness or stinging in individuals with highly reactive or broken skin barriers
- Contact allergy presenting as itching rash or swelling for those sensitized to any fatty acid component
- Clogged pores or breakouts in very acne prone skin if used in an overly rich formula
- Eye irritation such as watering or burning if the product migrates into the eyes
- Greasy afterfeel which some users may interpret as heaviness especially in hot humid climates
If you experience any negative reaction discontinue use and seek guidance from a dermatologist or healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
This low score is because the copolymer’s bulky structure keeps it sitting on top of the skin rather than sliding deep into pores like smaller pure fatty acids might. While it contains stearic and isostearic chains that could be pore clogging on their own, linking them to a polyglycerin backbone and polymerizing them with dilinoleic acid greatly reduces their ability to accumulate inside follicles.
Suitable for acne-prone skin in most cases, but very oily or congestion-prone individuals may still prefer lighter formulas if the overall product feels too rich.
Formulators often pair it with non-comedogenic oils and lightweight silicones, further cutting down clogging risk.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer acts as a skin conditioner, protector and viscosity controller. Its polyglycerin backbone binds water while the fatty acid tails anchor to oils, creating a flexible film that locks in moisture and cushions the skin. The same structure also thickens emulsions so creams stay smooth and stable.
Though not as famous as hyaluronic acid or squalane, this plant-derived emulsifier quietly shows up in many modern moisturizers, masks and baby care formulas thanks to its gentle feel and vegan profile.
Current safety data and long-time use in personal care point to a very low irritation risk for the general public. Still, individual sensitivities vary so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains this or any other ingredient before full-face use.