What Is Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer?
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer is a plant-derived, multi-functional ingredient created by linking glycerin molecules with a blend of fatty acids that include stearic acid, isostearic acid and hydrogenated dimer dilinoleic acid. The result is a large, branched molecule that behaves like both an emollient oil and a water-loving humectant. Chemists began experimenting with polyglycerin-fatty acid combinations in the early 2000s as a greener alternative to traditional polyethylene-based thickeners. By adjusting the length of the glycerin chain and the types of fatty acids attached, formulators discovered they could build stable, silicone-free textures that feel light yet cushioning on skin.
The ingredient is produced through a two-step process. First, plant oils such as sunflower or rapeseed are split to isolate the individual fatty acids. Glycerin, obtained from vegetable sources, is then polymerized into a short chain of three units. In a controlled esterification reaction, the polyglycerin is bonded to the fatty acids, creating the final crosspolymer that can suspend oils, hold water and add a velvety finish to creams. Because the raw materials are renewable and the end product is biodegradable, it is often marketed as an eco-friendly texture enhancer.
You will most often see Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer in moisturizers, overnight masks, BB creams, cleansing balms, eye creams, anti-aging serums and tinted sunscreens. It helps these formulas stay stable without the greasy afterfeel associated with heavier waxes.
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasker improves both the feel of a product and the way your skin behaves after application.
- Humectant: Attracts and binds water from the environment or from deeper skin layers, boosting overall hydration and helping products stay flexible rather than drying out
- Skin conditioning: Softens and smooths the skin surface, supports the skin barrier with fatty acid content and leaves a light, non-greasy finish that enhances comfort in leave-on products
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer
This ingredient is generally well tolerated by all skin types, including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin. Because it delivers light moisture without a heavy occlusive film, it suits acne-prone and congestion-prone complexions that react badly to richer emollients. People with very reactive or highly damaged skin barriers may still want to start slowly, as any new ingredient has the potential to trigger discomfort in those situations.
It is produced from plant-derived glycerin and fatty acids, with no animal by-products used during manufacture, so it is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data show no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used topically at the concentrations found in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before starting any new skincare routine just to be safe.
The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and does not interfere with sunscreen filters, so there is no added risk of photosensitivity. It also has no known interactions with common actives like retinoids, vitamin C or exfoliating acids, making it easy to layer within most routines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer vary from person to person. The issues listed below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated within a cosmetic product.
- Mild stinging or redness
- Itchiness in very sensitive or compromised skin
- Temporary clogged pores in individuals extremely prone to comedones
- Watery eyes or irritation if product accidentally gets into the eye area
If any of these effects occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Even though the crosspolymer contains fatty acid tails, they are locked into a bulky polyglycerin framework that keeps them from compacting inside pores. It lays down a sheer breathable film and rinses away cleanly, so it almost never encourages the buildup that sparks breakouts.
With this low score the ingredient is considered suitable for acne-prone skin.
Pore-clogging risk depends on the whole formula and individual skin behavior, so results can vary from person to person.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer works as a humectant and skin conditioner. The glycerin backbone pulls in moisture while the attached fatty acids smooth, cushion and reinforce the skin barrier, all while helping creams stay stable and silky.
Although not yet as common as classic emulsifiers, its plant origin and light feel are making it a rising star in newer eco-minded moisturisers, masks and hybrids.
Safety studies show minimal risk of irritation or toxicity at normal use levels, so most users can enjoy its benefits with confidence. Still, patch testing any new product is a smart habit to be sure your skin stays happy.