What Is Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Oleate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer?
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Oleate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer is a plant-derived polymer made by linking three glycerin units, then attaching fatty acids from vegetable oils. During manufacturing the polyglycerin backbone reacts with dilinoleic acid to form a flexible chain that is later capped with stearic and oleic acids. This crosslinking creates a stable network that can hold oil and water together in a smooth blend.
Polyglyceryl esters have been used since the mid-20th century as gentle alternatives to harsher surfactants. The crosspolymer version is a newer development that gives thicker, silkier textures while staying free of PEGs and silicones, which appeals to clean beauty brands.
You will often find this ingredient in moisturizers, night creams, balms, face masks, tinted creams, solid cleansers, baby care and sun care products where a cushiony soft feel and steady moisture release are valued.
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Oleate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multifunctional polymer adds both performance and a pleasant sensory feel to skincare and makeup.
- Skin conditioning: Forms a light, breathable film that helps skin hold onto water so it feels smoother and more supple
- Emollient: Fills in tiny gaps between skin cells, softening rough patches and giving formulas a rich creamy glide without a greasy after-feel
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Oleate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer
This ingredient is gentle enough for most skin types, including normal, dry, oily, combination and even sensitive skin because it does not strip natural oils or clog pores. Very acne-prone users who react to rich textures might prefer lighter formulas, but the ingredient itself is considered low risk for breakouts.
It is plant derived, obtained from glycerin and fatty acids sourced from vegetable oils, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
Current research shows no evidence that the ingredient penetrates deeply or acts like a hormone disruptor, so products containing it are generally seen as safe for use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a doctor before adding new skincare products.
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Oleate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so there is no added risk of photosensitivity. Standard daytime sun protection is still recommended for overall skin health.
The ingredient is also free of fragrances, preservatives and animal by-products which makes it a good option for people avoiding those components.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Oleate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer differ from person to person. The following points list potential side effects, though most users will never notice any problems when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild redness or irritation in very sensitive skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis if someone is allergic to one of the source oils
- Temporary clogged pores if applied in an overly heavy formula on skin already prone to congestion
If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Oleate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer is built on small, water-attracting glycerin units and larger plant-based fatty acids that stay mostly on the skin’s surface. Its molecular size and partial water solubility keep it from sinking deeply into pores, so it is very unlikely to block them. A rating of 1 means it is considered non-pore-clogging for the vast majority of users.
Because of this low score it is generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, provided the rest of the formula is also lightweight. Extremely oily or congested skin types may still prefer products with an even lower oil content.
Formulators often pair this polymer with non-comedogenic oils or water-based gels which further reduces any clogging risk.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Oleate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer acts as a skin-conditioning emollient that smooths rough patches, locks in moisture and gives creams or balms a plush, cushiony glide. It does this by forming a breathable film from its glycerin backbone while its fatty acid tails fill gaps between skin cells for instant softness.
The ingredient sits comfortably in the “clean beauty” spotlight because it is plant derived, PEG-free and silicone-free, so indie and natural brands reach for it to create richer textures without heaviness. While not as mainstream as classic emulsifiers like glyceryl stearate, its popularity is growing in moisturizers, masks and solid cleansers that promise a velvety feel.
Current safety data shows a very low risk of irritation or sensitization and it scores near the bottom of the comedogenic scale. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so perform a quick patch test when trying a new product that contains this polymer to ensure personal compatibility.