What Is Polyglyceryl-3 Sunflowerseedate/Citrate Crosspolymer?
Polyglyceryl-3 Sunflowerseedate/Citrate Crosspolymer is a plant-derived ingredient created by reacting fatty acids from sunflower seeds with polyglycerin-3, then linking the mixture together with a small amount of citric acid to form a flexible network, or polymer. The sunflower seed portion supplies skin-friendly lipids, while polyglycerin-3, which is made from glycerin, adds water-loving sites that help the final material balance oil and water in a formula.
The move toward greener, more biodegradable emulsifiers in the early 2000s pushed chemists to explore food-grade building blocks like vegetable oils, glycerin, and fruit acids. Polyglyceryl-based emulsifiers caught on quickly because they rely on renewable resources and avoid ethoxylation, a process some brands wish to sidestep. By crosslinking the sunflowerseedate with citric acid, manufacturers created a slightly larger molecule that stays stable over a wider pH range and resists breaking apart under heat or shear. Today this ingredient is produced through a controlled, solvent-free esterification process, then purified and dried into a pasty or waxy solid ready for batching.
You will most often see Polyglyceryl-3 Sunflowerseedate/Citrate Crosspolymer in creams, lotions, face masks, baby care products, gentle cleansers, makeup removers, sunscreens, and leave-on hair conditioners where a mild, plant-sourced emulsifier is desired.
Polyglyceryl-3 Sunflowerseedate/Citrate Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasker supports both the texture and cleansing power of a formula.
- Emulsion stabilising: It keeps oil and water phases blended so the product stays smooth, uniform and free from separation throughout its shelf life, which improves the feel and reliability of creams, lotions and sunscreens
- Cleansing: Its unique balance of oily and water-loving parts helps gently lift dirt, makeup and excess sebum from skin without stripping, making it a choice component in micellar waters and milky cleansers
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-3 Sunflowerseedate/Citrate Crosspolymer
This ingredient is considered friendly for nearly every skin type. Its mild nature and balance of oil-loving and water-loving parts mean it works well for normal, dry, oily and combination skin without clogging pores or leaving a heavy film. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it too because it lacks harsh sulfates and fragrances.
Polyglyceryl-3 Sunflowerseedate/Citrate Crosspolymer is completely plant sourced so it suits vegans and vegetarians. The fatty acids come from sunflower seeds, the polyglycerin backbone is produced from vegetable glycerin and the crosslinker is citric acid from fruits, so no animal-derived materials are involved.
Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals can generally use products containing this emulsifier because it stays on the skin’s surface and the raw materials are food-grade. This is not medical advice though, so anyone who is expecting or nursing should run their skincare routine past a qualified doctor to be safe.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also non-ionic, which means it rarely interferes with other actives in a formula.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Polyglyceryl-3 Sunflowerseedate/Citrate Crosspolymer differ from person to person. The following list covers potential side effects only, and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.
- Mild skin irritation or redness, especially on very sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to sunflower seed components
- Transient eye stinging if a cleanser containing the ingredient gets into the eyes
- Drier or tighter feel if a high-foaming formula is left on the skin too long
- Isolated breakouts if combined with heavy occlusive oils, though the emulsifier itself is non-comedogenic
If you develop any discomfort, discontinue use and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5 (very low)
Polyglyceryl-3 Sunflowerseedate/Citrate Crosspolymer is a large, water-loving molecule that stays on the surface to stabilise emulsions rather than sinking into pores. The sunflower fatty acids are tightly bound to a polyglycerin backbone which keeps the material lightweight and easy to rinse away. In industry tests it has not been linked to pore clogging or acne flare-ups, so formulators class it as practically non-comedogenic.
Because of this low rating the ingredient is considered suitable for skin that is prone to acne or breakouts.
Only when combined with very heavy oils or waxes could pore blockage become a concern, and even then the emulsifier itself is unlikely to be the culprit.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-3 Sunflowerseedate/Citrate Crosspolymer is a plant sourced emulsifier that keeps oil and water blended and helps cleansers lift dirt without stripping. Its fatty sunflower side grabs oil while its polyglycerin side grabs water, letting it bridge the two phases and stabilise formulas.
The ingredient is steadily gaining ground in natural and sensitive skin products because it is renewable, biodegradable and free of sulfates or PEGs. You will find it in baby lotions, facial creams, micellar waters and modern sunscreen milks, though it has not yet become a household name.
Safety studies show it is mild, vegan friendly and carries almost no comedogenic risk. Still, patch test any new product that contains it to be on the safe side.