What Is Polyglyceryl-5 Hydroxypropyl Lauryl Ether?
Polyglyceryl-5 Hydroxypropyl Lauryl Ether is a plant-derived surfactant created by reacting polyglyceryl-5, a chain of five glycerin units, with lauryl glycidyl ether, a fatty substance obtained from coconut or palm oil. The reaction links the water-loving glycerin backbone to an oil-loving lauryl group, giving the molecule the ability to bridge water and oil. First introduced in the early 2000s as brands looked for milder alternatives to traditional sulfates, it quickly gained favor in natural and sulfate-free formulas.
Manufacturers start by polymerizing glycerin into polyglyceryl-5 under controlled heat. They then react it with a single mole of lauryl glycidyl ether, usually in the presence of food-grade catalysts. The end product is purified, yielding a clear to pale yellow liquid that is readily biodegradable.
Because of its gentle cleansing power and ability to form stable emulsions, Polyglyceryl-5 Hydroxypropyl Lauryl Ether appears in facial cleansers, micellar waters, baby washes, lightweight moisturizers, sheet-mask essences, scalp treatments and even some spray-on sunscreens.
Polyglyceryl-5 Hydroxypropyl Lauryl Ether’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient improves both texture and performance in a wide range of formulas.
- Cleansing: Lifts away dirt, excess oil and makeup without stripping skin or hair, making it ideal for gentle face washes and micellar waters
- Emulsifying: Helps water and oil blend smoothly so creams stay uniform, textures feel light and active ingredients remain evenly distributed throughout the product
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-5 Hydroxypropyl Lauryl Ether
Thanks to its mild nature this surfactant suits nearly every skin type, including oily, combination, normal, sensitive and mature. Dry or eczema-prone skin may also tolerate it well because it cleans without stripping natural lipids, yet individual tolerance can vary.
The ingredient is synthesised from vegetable glycerin and coconut or palm-derived lauryl sources, with no animal materials involved, so it is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
No specific data suggest risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically at the low levels found in finished cosmetics. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before starting a new product, just to be safe.
Polyglyceryl-5 Hydroxypropyl Lauryl Ether does not cause photosensitivity and will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also free of common fragrance allergens, sulfates and PEGs, which minimizes compatibility issues in most formulas.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to topical Polyglyceryl-5 Hydroxypropyl Lauryl Ether can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential issues, yet they are uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in well-formulated products.
- Mild skin redness or stinging on very sensitive or compromised skin
- Transient eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- In rare cases, allergic contact dermatitis in individuals already sensitised to similar fatty alcohol derivatives
- Excessive dryness if combined with multiple other cleansing agents and overused
If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 (very low)
Polyglyceryl-5 Hydroxypropyl Lauryl Ether is highly water soluble and rinses clean, so it does not linger on the skin long enough to block pores. Although it contains a lauryl segment, that fatty chain is chemically bound to a large polyglycerin backbone, reducing any occlusive effect. Formulas that use it typically include it at low levels and are designed to wash off, which further limits the chance of buildup.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most rinse-off and leave-on products.
Only products with unusually high percentages of this ingredient or very heavy accompanying oils might pose a minimal clogging risk.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-5 Hydroxypropyl Lauryl Ether works mainly as a mild cleanser and an emulsifier. Its polyglycerin arm attracts water while the lauryl tail grabs onto oils, so it lifts away dirt and makeup then helps water and oil stay blended for smooth creams and clear gels. This dual action lets formulators cut harsher sulfates and keep textures light.
The ingredient is gaining popularity in sulfate-free face washes, micellar waters and clean beauty moisturizers, though it is still less common than older surfactants like coco-glucoside.
Current safety reviews show low irritation potential, negligible comedogenic risk and excellent biodegradability, making it a safe choice for most users. As with any new skincare product, performing a small patch test can help confirm personal tolerance.