What Is Polyglyceryl-5 Pentamyristate?
Polyglyceryl-5 Pentamyristate is a plant-derived ingredient created by linking five glycerin molecules to myristic acid, a fatty acid commonly sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil. This union forms a pentaester that is both oil loving and water loving, making it valuable in modern skincare. The use of fatty acid esters in beauty products dates back several decades, but advances in green chemistry allowed manufacturers to replace traditional petroleum-based emulsifiers with more skin-friendly options like Polyglyceryl-5 Pentamyristate during the 1990s and early 2000s. Production involves heating purified glycerin until its molecules connect into a short chain of five units, then reacting that chain with myristic acid under controlled conditions. The resulting material is a soft, waxy solid that melts easily into cosmetic bases.
Because it balances oil and water so well, this ingredient shows up in a wide range of formulas. You will commonly find it in light facial moisturizers, nourishing creams, cleansing balms, makeup removers, hydrating masks and some color cosmetics such as cream blush or foundation sticks where a smooth, non-greasy glide is needed.
Polyglyceryl-5 Pentamyristate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators rely on Polyglyceryl-5 Pentamyristate for one key job that directly impacts a product’s texture and performance.
Emulsifying: It helps oil and water blend evenly, preventing separation during storage and use. This stable mix gives creams and lotions a smoother feel, allows active ingredients to distribute more uniformly on the skin and reduces the need for heavier synthetic stabilizers.
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-5 Pentamyristate
This emulsifier suits most skin types. Dry and mature skin appreciate its light fatty feel, while normal, combination and sensitive skin tolerate it well thanks to its low irritation profile. Very oily or highly acne prone complexions may prefer lower levels of fatty esters, so checking where it falls on the ingredient list can help gauge richness.
The material is sourced from vegetable glycerin and plant based myristic acid, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians as long as the finished product is cruelty free.
No studies flag Polyglyceryl-5 Pentamyristate as a risk during pregnancy or breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should have their healthcare provider review any skincare product they plan to use.
The ingredient does not absorb UV light and is not linked to photosensitivity. It also plays nicely with common actives like retinoids or exfoliating acids because it is chemically stable and non reactive.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyglyceryl-5 Pentamyristate can differ from person to person. The effects listed below are possible yet unlikely when the ingredient is included at standard cosmetic levels in a well formulated product.
- Mild skin irritation such as tingling or stinging, typically short lived
- Redness or an itchy rash in individuals with a specific fatty acid sensitivity
- Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases of true ingredient allergy
- Temporary clogged pores or breakouts in very acne prone skin if used in a rich formula
If any of these side effects occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2/5 – While myristic acid on its own can sit higher on the comedogenic scale, linking it to a polyglycerin backbone makes the molecule bulkier and less able to lodge inside pores. Most formulas use it at low levels purely for emulsifying, further reducing clogging potential.
People who experience frequent breakouts can usually tolerate products containing Polyglyceryl-5 Pentamyristate, especially when it appears midway or lower on an ingredient list.
Texture, concentration and the presence of other rich lipids in the finished product will influence how pore friendly the final formula feels, so overall recipe matters as much as the ingredient itself.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-5 Pentamyristate acts mainly as a plant-based emulsifier that binds oil and water, giving creams and balms a smooth, stable consistency while adding a light cushiony feel. It does this by pairing the water loving polyglycerin chain with the oil loving myristic acid tail so the molecule can sit at the oil-water interface and keep both phases unified.
The ingredient enjoys moderate popularity: not as common as classic polysorbates yet valued by clean beauty brands looking for biodegradable alternatives derived from coconut or palm kernel sources.
Overall safety data shows a very low irritation and allergen profile, making it suitable for most users. As with any new skincare product, do a quick patch test first to confirm personal tolerance.