What Is Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate?
Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate is a plant-derived ingredient created by linking five glycerin molecules together then attaching three myristic acid chains. Both building blocks usually come from renewable sources such as coconut or palm kernel oil, giving the final material a biodegradable profile that appeals to brands looking for greener alternatives to traditional petroleum-based emulsifiers. The compound gained attention in the early 2000s when formulators began moving away from ethoxylated surfactants and searching for mild options that still offer reliable performance. Production involves a controlled esterification process in which heat and a food-grade catalyst help the polyglycerin react with purified myristic acid. The result is a waxy solid that melts easily into oil phases.
Because it bridges water and oil, Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate appears in many types of cosmetics. You will often find it in facial creams, body lotions, sunscreen emulsions, color cosmetics like foundations and lipsticks, cleansing balms, hair conditioners and baby care formulas where gentle touch is key.
Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves one main purpose in skin and hair care products
As an emulsifier Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate helps blend water and oil into a smooth stable mixture. It keeps creams from separating, improves texture, makes products spread evenly and can enhance the delivery of active ingredients by keeping the formula uniform during storage and use.
Who Can Use Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate
This emulsifier is considered gentle enough for all skin types including dry oily combination and sensitive skin because it has a low irritation profile and does not drastically alter the skin’s natural pH. Those with very oily or acne-prone skin may still prefer lighter formulas, but the ingredient itself is not known to worsen breakouts for most users.
Since the glycerin and fatty acid components are typically sourced from plants such as coconut or palm Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. No animal derivatives are needed during production and the finished material is readily biodegradable which appeals to eco-conscious shoppers.
There are no documented safety concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when this ingredient is used topically at levels found in cosmetics. However this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new products to a routine.
The molecule does not absorb UV light so it does not cause photosensitivity. It is also free of common allergens like gluten soy and nuts unless the finished product adds them from other sources.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate can vary from person to person. The effects below are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is correctly formulated in a product.
- Mild skin irritation such as temporary redness or itching
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to coconut or palm derivatives
- Transient clogged pores for users extremely prone to comedones if the formula is very rich
If any negative reaction occurs stop using the product and seek guidance from a medical professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate carries a long polyglycerin backbone that makes the molecule bulky and water loving so it has little ability to lodge inside pores. Although myristic acid on its own can rank higher the esterified form is far less occlusive because the fatty chains are locked into a larger structure that mostly stays on the skin surface then rinses away. Most formulators therefore regard it as low risk for clogging.
Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone skin in the vast majority of formulations.
Keep in mind that the overall richness of a product and the presence of other heavy oils have a bigger impact on pore congestion than this emulsifier itself.
Summary
Polyglyceryl-5 Trimyristate is a plant derived emulsifier that links water and oil so creams, lotions and color cosmetics stay smooth and stable. Its polyglycerin head loves water while the myristic tails love oil allowing it to sit at the interface and prevent separation.
The ingredient is fairly popular in modern clean beauty lines because it is biodegradable, sourced from renewable oils and provides gentle performance without the need for ethoxylated surfactants. It is not yet as common as classic emulsifiers like glyceryl stearate but its usage is steadily growing.
Safety data show a very low irritation profile and no major red flags for any skin type including sensitive, pregnant or vegan consumers. As with any new skincare product a quick patch test on a small area is wise before full application just to be safe.