Polyhydroxystearamidopropyl Dimethylamine: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Polyhydroxystearamidopropyl Dimethylamine?

Polyhydroxystearamidopropyl Dimethylamine is a mild surfactant made by joining a fatty acid called hydroxystearic acid with a small nitrogen-containing molecule known as dimethylamine. Hydroxystearic acid usually comes from plant oils such as castor or rapeseed. Chemists react the fatty acid with dimethylamine in a controlled setting, then add extra steps to attach hydroxyl (water-loving) groups. The finished ingredient has a “head” that mixes well with water and a “tail” that grabs oil, which is why it cleans so effectively.

The search for gentler cleansers pushed cosmetic scientists to explore alternatives to harsh soaps in the late 1990s. Polyhydroxystearamidopropyl Dimethylamine rose in popularity because it could lift dirt without stripping skin or hair. Today you will spot it in facial cleansers, micellar waters, shampoo, body wash and makeup removers. Its balanced nature lets brands create formulas that foam lightly yet rinse easily, giving users a soft afterfeel.

Polyhydroxystearamidopropyl Dimethylamine’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient serves one main purpose in personal care formulas

It acts as a cleansing agent. By surrounding oil and grime with its dual-natured structure, it allows them to be rinsed away with water. The result is effective cleansing that feels gentle on skin and hair, helping products leave behind a fresh comfortable finish.

Who Can Use Polyhydroxystearamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Because it is a mild surfactant that lifts grime without stripping, Polyhydroxystearamidopropyl Dimethylamine suits most skin types including sensitive, oily, combination and mature skin. Extremely dry or eczema-prone users may still prefer richer cleansers if they feel tightness after rinsing, but in general the ingredient is gentle enough for daily use on face, body and hair.

The raw materials come from plant oils and no animal-derived substances are needed in its manufacture, so the ingredient itself is vegetarian and vegan friendly. Cruelty-free status depends on the finished brand’s testing policies rather than on Polyhydroxystearamidopropyl Dimethylamine.

Current safety data show no specific concerns for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used in rinse-off products. This is not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should ask a healthcare professional to review their skincare routine for added peace of mind.

The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it does not increase the risk of sunburn or photosensitivity reactions. It is also non-ionic, meaning it works well alongside most other cleanser ingredients without causing unwanted interactions.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Polyhydroxystearamidopropyl Dimethylamine differ from person to person. The points below describe possible side effects, but they are uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.

  • Mild stinging or redness on very sensitive skin, especially if the product is left on for longer than instructed
  • Transient eye irritation if the cleanser accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Contact dermatitis in people allergic to amide-based surfactants, though documented cases are rare
  • Dryness or tightness if used in high concentration without balancing moisturisers

If you experience any of these effects discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Polyhydroxystearamidopropyl Dimethylamine earns a comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5. Its molecule is mostly water soluble and is designed to rinse away quickly rather than linger on skin so it is unlikely to clog pores. The small amount of fatty acid portion that remains is balanced by the cleansing head of the molecule which helps remove oil instead of adding to it. Because of this low score the ingredient is generally considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. Most formulas that use it are rinse-off cleansers so residue is minimal, further reducing any pore-clogging risk.

Summary

Polyhydroxystearamidopropyl Dimethylamine is valued as a mild cleansing agent that lifts dirt oil and makeup without stripping skin or hair. It performs this role by pairing a water-loving head with an oil-grabbing tail letting grime surround itself with the ingredient and wash away easily. While not the most famous surfactant on the shelf it has carved out a steady spot in gentle facial cleansers micellar waters and sulfate-free shampoos where users want a soft finish and light foam.

Current research and practical use show the ingredient to be safe for most people with a very low risk of irritation or pore blockage when used as directed. As with any new skincare product it is wise to do a quick patch test first simply to check how your own skin responds.

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