What Is Polyquaternium-116?
Polyquaternium-116 is a conditioning polymer created by reacting behenic acid, adipic acid, triethanolamine and methyl diethanolamine, then quaternizing the mix with dimethyl sulfate. The result is a water-soluble quaternary ammonium compound that carries a positive charge, allowing it to cling to hair and skin surfaces. It first appeared in the early 2000s as formulators looked for new ways to add lasting softness without a greasy feel. Production involves combining the fatty acids with the amines under controlled heat, followed by the quaternization step that locks in the positive charge.
You will spot Polyquaternium-116 in rinse-off and leave-on hair conditioners, styling creams, detangling sprays, sheet masks, lightweight facial moisturizers, after-shave balms and some soothing body lotions. Its gentle nature and smooth finish make it popular in both premium salon lines and everyday drugstore products.
Polyquaternium-116’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient offers several helpful roles in beauty formulas
- Hair conditioning — Forms a thin film on each strand that smooths cuticles, reduces static and makes combing easier. Hair feels softer and gains a healthy-looking shine.
- Skin conditioning — Binds lightly to the skin’s surface, giving a silky after-feel. Helps skin stay hydrated by reducing water loss and can make rough areas feel smoother.
- Emollient — Adds slip and spreadability to creams and lotions so they glide on without tugging. This cushioned texture improves overall user experience and can enhance the performance of other actives in the formula.
Who Can Use Polyquaternium-116
Polyquaternium-116 is considered gentle enough for all major skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily skin because it sits on the surface rather than penetrating deeply. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it well due to its low irritation profile although anyone with a known sensitivity to quaternary ammonium compounds should stay cautious.
The raw materials used to make Polyquaternium-116 are either plant derived or fully synthetic so no animal by-products are involved. That makes it suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when using this ingredient in rinse-off or leave-on products. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run all personal care products past a qualified healthcare provider to be safe.
Polyquaternium-116 does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and it has no known interactions with common actives such as vitamin C or retinoids. It can be used morning or night without special precautions.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyquaternium-116 can vary from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential outcomes and, when the ingredient is properly formulated, most users will not experience them.
- Mild skin irritation such as transient redness or itching, more likely in individuals with very reactive skin
- Contact allergy presenting as localized rash if a person is sensitized to quaternary ammonium salts
- Eye irritation if the ingredient accidentally gets into the eyes during application or rinsing
- Hair buildup leading to limp or weighed-down strands when high concentrations are used frequently without clarifying shampoos
If any unpleasant reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Polyquaternium-116 is given a comedogenic rating of 1. It is water soluble and forms a very light, breathable film that rinses away easily, so it is unlikely to block pores in most people. The molecule is also quite large, which limits its ability to penetrate into sebaceous follicles where breakouts start. For these reasons it is generally considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Only in very heavy leave-on formulas or when layered with multiple occlusive ingredients might it contribute to congestion, and even then the risk is low.
Summary
Polyquaternium-116 works as a hair conditioner, skin conditioner and emollient by depositing a positively charged film that smooths cuticles, softens skin and improves the glide of creams. It delivers a silky finish without the greasy feel of heavier oils, helping products feel lighter while still reducing moisture loss. Though not the most famous conditioning polymer, it shows up in a steady range of mid-range and premium formulas because formulators appreciate its mildness and clean skin feel.
Current safety data indicate a very low risk of irritation or sensitization when used as directed, and its comedogenic rating of 1 means it poses little threat to clogged pores. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to perform a small patch test when trying a product that contains Polyquaternium-116 to make sure your skin agrees with it.