What Is Polyquaternium-87?
Polyquaternium-87 is a water soluble polymer made by combining three building blocks: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylimidazole and diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride. Together they form a quaternary ammonium salt that carries a positive charge, which makes it naturally attracted to hair and skin surfaces that tend to be slightly negatively charged.
The molecule was first explored in the late 20th century when formulators searched for gentler alternatives to traditional setting resins. Because it delivers hold without the stiffness or flaking linked to older hairsprays, it was quickly adopted by the personal care industry. Today it is produced in large reactors where the three monomers are mixed with water, a catalyst and controlled heat. The result is a clear, viscous solution that is purified, filtered and then shipped to cosmetic manufacturers.
You will most often find Polyquaternium-87 in styling gels, mousses, sprays and leave-in conditioners. It also appears in 2-in-1 shampoos, hair masks and even some brow or lash grooming products where light hold and conditioning are needed.
Polyquaternium-87’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose Polyquaternium-87 because it delivers several useful actions in a single ingredient
- Film forming: Creates a thin, flexible layer over hair strands that locks in style, helps protect against humidity and adds a smooth feel
- Hair conditioning: Deposits a positive charge that reduces static, improves detangling and leaves hair softer and easier to comb
- Hair fixing: Provides light to medium hold so styles keep their shape while still allowing natural movement and touchability
Who Can Use Polyquaternium-87
Polyquaternium-87 is generally considered suitable for all scalp and hair types, including oily, dry and color treated hair. Its cationic nature allows it to condition without leaving heavy residue, making it a good choice even for sensitive or easily weighed-down strands. People with a history of allergies to quaternary ammonium compounds or very reactive skin should proceed with caution, as rare irritation can occur.
The polymer is synthetically produced and contains no animal-derived materials, so it is appropriate for vegans and vegetarians.
No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women regarding topical use of Polyquaternium-87. While the ingredient is regarded as low risk, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review any product containing it with a healthcare professional to be safe.
Polyquaternium-87 does not increase photosensitivity, and it plays well with common hair care actives such as silicones, proteins and plant oils.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polyquaternium-87 can vary from person to person. The following list outlines potential side effects, but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild scalp or skin irritation, including redness or itching
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitized to quaternary ammonium salts
- Eye stinging or watering if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Product build-up that leaves hair feeling heavy or dull when used in very high concentrations or without regular cleansing
If any unpleasant reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a medical professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5
Polyquaternium-87 is a large, water-soluble polymer that sits on the surface of hair and skin rather than sinking into pores. Because it is positively charged it binds mainly to the outer cuticle of hair, and any residue washes away easily with regular cleansing. These characteristics make it highly unlikely to clog pores or trigger comedones.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone individuals.
One thing to note is that most products using Polyquaternium-87 are rinse-off or used sparingly as leave-ins, further lowering any risk of pore obstruction.
Summary
Polyquaternium-87 acts as a film former, light fixer and conditioner by creating a thin positively charged layer that smooths strands, controls static and holds style without stiffness or flakes. Its water solubility allows it to rinse out cleanly so hair feels soft and natural.
The ingredient enjoys steady popularity in styling sprays, mousses and 2-in-1 shampoos where gentle hold and touchable finish are needed. It is not as ubiquitous as silicone-based conditioners but formulators value it for delivering multiple benefits in one shot.
Current research and decades of cosmetic use point to a strong safety profile with low irritation potential and virtually no comedogenicity. As with any new product it is wise to perform a quick patch test to rule out personal sensitivities before full application.