What Is Polysorbate 20 Dicinnamate?
Polysorbate 20 Dicinnamate is a specialty surfactant made by reacting Polysorbate 20, a sugar-derived emulsifier, with cinnamic acid, a plant based compound found in cinnamon bark and certain fruits. The result is a nonionic molecule that carries both water loving and oil loving parts, letting it mix ingredients that normally stay separate. Polysorbates have been used in beauty products since the mid-20th century for their gentle cleansing power and reliable stability. Chemists later linked cinnamic acid to the structure to create a version that offers extra softness and a light, pleasant scent.
The ingredient is produced through an esterification process. First, sorbitol is reacted with fatty acids from coconut or palm to create Polysorbate 20. This base is then treated with purified cinnamic acid under controlled heat so the acid group bonds to available hydroxyl groups on the polysorbate. The finished material is filtered, tested for purity then supplied as a clear to pale amber liquid.
You will most often spot Polysorbate 20 Dicinnamate in rinse-off cleansers, micellar waters, facial masks, lightweight moisturizers, leave-in hair conditioners, makeup removers and anti aging serums that need a stable oil-in-water system.
Polysorbate 20 Dicinnamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multi-tasking agent improves both the feel and performance of a wide range of formulas
- Emulsion stabilising – keeps oil and water phases blended so the product stays smooth, homogenous and effective from the first pump to the last drop
- Cleansing – gently lifts dirt, excess oil and makeup from skin or hair without stripping natural moisture which helps maintain a soft hydrated finish
Who Can Use Polysorbate 20 Dicinnamate
Thanks to its mild nonionic structure Polysorbate 20 Dicinnamate is generally considered suitable for dry, normal, combination and oily skin. Its gentle cleansing action rarely disturbs the skin’s natural barrier so even sensitive or redness-prone complexions usually tolerate it well. People with a known allergy to cinnamon or cinnamic acid derivatives should proceed with caution since trace aromatic residues could spark irritation.
The ingredient is made from plant sourced sugars and fatty acids then reacted with naturally occurring cinnamic acid, meaning no animal-derived inputs are involved. This makes it acceptable for vegans and vegetarians when used in products that meet cruelty-free standards.
Current safety assessments show no reproductive toxicity, so products containing Polysorbate 20 Dicinnamate are not restricted for pregnant or breastfeeding women. That said this is not medical advice. Anyone expecting or nursing should review their skincare routine with a qualified physician before starting new products.
Unlike some citrus or essential oil constituents, Polysorbate 20 Dicinnamate is not known to cause photosensitivity. It actually offers mild UV absorption due to its cinnamate group, yet not at levels that replace sunscreen. It has no significant fragrance on its own, is water soluble for easy rinse-off and works in both leave-on and wash-off formats.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polysorbate 20 Dicinnamate can vary from one individual to another. The points below outline potential reactions though most users experience none of these when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or stinging, more likely on compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to cinnamic compounds
- Transient eye irritation if high concentrations get into the eyes
- Rare allergic rash accompanied by itchiness or swelling
If any discomfort, persistent redness or swelling develops discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice if symptoms do not resolve promptly
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Polysorbate 20 Dicinnamate is highly water soluble and used at low levels, so it rinses away easily and does not leave an occlusive film that could block pores. While it carries some fatty acid groups, these are attached to a bulky sugar backbone that limits their ability to build up on skin. For these reasons formulators consider it practically non clogging, earning it a rating of 1 rather than a perfect 0.
Because of this low score the ingredient is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.
As with most surfactant based helpers it is the overall formula that matters. Heavy oils or waxes paired with Polysorbate 20 Dicinnamate could still cause congestion even though the emulsifier itself is low risk.
Summary
Polysorbate 20 Dicinnamate serves mainly as an emulsion stabiliser and mild cleanser. Its dual water loving and oil loving ends embed themselves at the oil water boundary, lowering surface tension so droplets stay evenly dispersed and grime can be lifted away with a splash of water. The cinnamate groups add a touch of softness along with faint UV absorbing properties.
This is a niche upgrade of the more common Polysorbate 20, so it appears in fewer products yet is gaining interest among formulators looking for gentle plant derived options.
Safety reviews show it to be low irritation, non phototoxic and suitable for most skin types including sensitive, pregnant and vegan users. Even so every skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains this ingredient and observe how your skin responds over 24 hours.