What Is Polysorbate 80 Dicinnamate?
Polysorbate 80 Dicinnamate is created when Polysorbate 80, a well known food and cosmetic surfactant from sorbitol and fatty acids, reacts with cinnamic acid, the compound that gives cinnamon its scent. The result is a liquid ingredient that mixes easily with both water and oil.
Polysorbate 80 has been used since the 1950s to keep emulsions smooth. Chemists later discovered that attaching cinnamic acid to the molecule gives it extra power to protect formulas from light damage, so Polysorbate 80 Dicinnamate appeared in sunscreens and skin care in the late 1990s.
Manufacturers start with plant derived sorbitol, add fatty acids from vegetable oils to make Polysorbate 80, then gently react it with purified cinnamic acid. The finished material is filtered, tested for purity and shipped as a clear to pale amber syrup.
You will most often spot Polysorbate 80 Dicinnamate in lightweight facial moisturizers, after-sun lotions, sheet masks and brightening serums. It also shows up in sprayable body oils and creamy color cosmetics where a stable blend of water and oil is critical.
Polysorbate 80 Dicinnamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient pulls double duty inside a formula helping both the product and your skin perform at their best.
- Emulsion stabilising – Keeps water and oil mixed after the product leaves the factory so the texture stays smooth and no oily layer floats to the top
- Light stabilizer – Helps guard delicate ingredients like vitamins and plant extracts from breaking down when exposed to sunlight which preserves color scent and overall effectiveness
- Emulsifying – Allows the initial blending of water and oil during manufacturing making it easier for chemists to create silky lotions creams and sprays without a greasy feel
Who Can Use Polysorbate 80 Dicinnamate
This ingredient is generally friendly for all skin types including dry, oily and combination because it is lightweight and non greasy. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well since it is used at low percentages and has a long record of cosmetic safety. There are no known reasons it would be unsuitable for melanin rich or acne prone complexions.
Polysorbate 80 Dicinnamate is made from plant derived sorbitol, vegetable fatty acids and synthetic cinnamic acid so it fits comfortably within vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.
No specific warnings link this ingredient to pregnancy or breastfeeding concerns however this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run every skincare product past a qualified doctor just to be safe.
Unlike some citrus oils or perfumes Polysorbate 80 Dicinnamate does not increase skin’s sensitivity to sunlight. In fact it helps shield other ingredients from UV damage which can indirectly protect skin benefits.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Polysorbate 80 Dicinnamate vary from person to person. The following is a list of potential side effects that remain unlikely for the average user when the product is formulated correctly.
- Mild redness or itching in those with a pre existing allergy to polysorbates
- Temporary stinging if applied to broken or freshly shaved skin
- Contact dermatitis in extremely sensitive individuals
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
If you notice any discomfort discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Polysorbate 80 Dicinnamate is largely water soluble and used at low levels so it tends not to linger in pores or create the film that usually leads to blockages. While it carries fatty acid groups they are highly dispersed once the ingredient meets water and skin lipids which keeps the clogging potential minimal.
Because of this low rating it is generally considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
One point worth noting is that its excellent emulsifying power can pull heavier oils into lightweight formulas. If a product built around Polysorbate 80 Dicinnamate still causes congestion the true culprit is more likely those companion oils rather than the emulsifier itself.
Summary
Polysorbate 80 Dicinnamate stabilises emulsions, kick-starts the mixing of oil with water and helps shield delicate actives from light. It does this by wrapping its water loving and oil loving ends around separate ingredients then locking everything together so the formula stays uniform and active ingredients stay potent.
Although not as famous as its parent Polysorbate 80 it quietly appears in sunscreens, brightening serums and spray lotions where formulators need a reliable light stabiliser without a greasy feel.
Safety studies and decades of real-world use show a very low risk profile for most skin types. Still every new product should be patch tested first so you can check how your own skin responds before applying it more broadly.