What Is Polyurea Crosspolymer-3?
Polyurea Crosspolymer-3 is a synthetic polymer formed when guanidine carbonate reacts with hexamethylene diisocyanate, creating a tightly crosslinked network that behaves like a lightweight porous powder. The result is an ingredient valued for its ability to sit smoothly on the skin while forming an even, flexible film. Although polyurea chemistry has long been used in industrial coatings, cosmetic chemists began exploring this specific crosspolymer in the early 2000s as they searched for ways to give makeup and skincare products better wear without a heavy feel.
The manufacturing process starts with guanidine carbonate, a nitrogen rich compound widely used in hair care, combined under controlled conditions with hexamethylene diisocyanate. The reaction produces numerous urea linkages that lock together into a three-dimensional structure. After purification and drying the material is milled into an ultrafine powder that disperses easily in water or oils.
You will most often see Polyurea Crosspolymer-3 in primers, long-wear foundations, oil control lotions, mattifying moisturizers, peel-off masks and certain anti-aging serums where a breathable yet durable surface film is needed.
Polyurea Crosspolymer-3’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas this ingredient serves a single core purpose that brings several user friendly advantages.
As a film former Polyurea Crosspolymer-3 creates a thin, invisible layer on the skin that helps products adhere longer, resist smudging and control shine. The film locks in active ingredients, evens out skin texture, blurs the look of pores and fine lines and reduces transfer of makeup onto clothes or masks. Because the polymer structure is highly porous the finish feels light and breathable rather than tight or sticky.
Who Can Use Polyurea Crosspolymer-3
Because it forms a weightless breathable film instead of a heavy occlusive layer, Polyurea Crosspolymer-3 works well for most skin types including oily, combination and normal skin. Dry skin can also tolerate it since the polymer does not pull moisture away from the surface, though additional hydrators are still needed for comfort. Sensitive skin usually handles it without trouble because it is inert and fragrance free; however if you are extremely reactive to synthetic polymers you might want to proceed cautiously.
The material is produced entirely from laboratory sourced chemicals and contains no animal derived raw materials so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. As always, animal testing policies depend on the finished brand rather than the ingredient itself.
Available safety data show very low dermal absorption and no links to reproductive toxicity, so current evidence suggests it is acceptable for use during pregnancy or breastfeeding. That said, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should clear all skincare products with a qualified healthcare provider just to be safe.
Polyurea Crosspolymer-3 does not cause photosensitivity and it will not interfere with sunscreen performance. There are no known ingredient conflicts, meaning it can be layered with acids, retinoids or antioxidants without destabilizing them.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Polyurea Crosspolymer-3 vary from person to person. The issues listed below are possible yet unlikely for most users when the ingredient is used at normal cosmetic levels.
Transient skin dryness – some individuals may feel a temporary dry sensation if the formula lacks enough emollients
Mild irritation or redness – rare but can occur in highly sensitive skin especially if residual monomers remain from poor manufacturing
Allergic contact dermatitis – very uncommon, usually linked to a pre existing allergy to isocyanate chemistry
Eye stinging – powders or sprays containing the polymer can cause discomfort if they get directly into the eyes
If you notice any of the above reactions stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for further guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0/5 – Polyurea Crosspolymer-3 is a dry, inert powder that does not melt into pores or leave an oily residue so it has almost no capacity to clog follicles. Its highly crosslinked structure sits on top of the skin as a breathable mesh rather than penetrating into the sebaceous duct.
Because of this it is generally safe for acne-prone and breakout-prone skin.
One small caveat is that if a formula pairs this polymer with heavy oils or waxes the overall product could still be comedogenic, but the polymer itself is not the culprit.
Summary
Polyurea Crosspolymer-3 is mainly a film former that boosts wear time, cuts shine and gives makeup or skincare a smoother, blurred finish. It achieves these perks by creating a thin porous network that locks product in place while allowing water vapor to pass through so the skin does not feel suffocated.
Although it is not yet a household name it is quietly gaining traction in long wear foundations, mattifying primers and certain peel-off masks because chemists appreciate its balance of durability and light feel.
Current safety data show minimal irritation potential, no evidence of systemic absorption and no links to hormonal or reproductive issues, making it a low-risk ingredient for most users. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to run a quick patch test when trying a product that contains it just to be sure your skin agrees.