What Is Polyurethane-12?
Polyurethane-12 is a synthetic polymer created by reacting several building blocks including trimethylolpropane, neopentyl glycol, dimethylol propionic acid, polytetramethylene ether glycol and isocyanato methylethylbenzene. When these molecules link together they form long, flexible chains that behave like a lightweight mesh on the skin. The ingredient has its roots in industrial polyurethane technology developed in the mid-20th century, but cosmetic chemists adopted it once they discovered that certain polyurethane variants could form breathable, weightless films suitable for personal care. To make cosmetic-grade Polyurethane-12, manufacturers combine the raw monomers in carefully controlled reactors, keep the temperature low to avoid yellowing, then purify the final polymer into a fine powder or aqueous dispersion.
Because it forms an invisible film that helps hold ingredients in place, Polyurethane-12 is commonly found in long-wear foundations, liquid and pencil eyeliners, mascara, tinted moisturizers, transfer-resistant lip colors, peel-off masks and certain hair styling products such as flexible hold gels and sprays.
Polyurethane-12’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators rely on Polyurethane-12 for a couple of practical reasons that improve both product performance and user experience.
- Binding: Acts like a glue that keeps pigments, shimmer particles and other solids evenly dispersed so color stays true and the formula does not separate in the bottle or on the skin
- Film forming: Creates a thin uniform layer that enhances wear time, provides water and smudge resistance and gives makeup a smooth second-skin feel without heaviness
Who Can Use Polyurethane-12
Polyurethane-12 is generally compatible with all skin types. Oily and combination skin often appreciate the lightweight film it forms because it resists excess sebum and keeps makeup in place. Normal and dry complexions can also use it, though those with very dry or flaky skin may want an added moisturizer since this polymer does not supply hydration on its own. It tends to be well tolerated by sensitive skin because it is inert and fragrance free, but anyone with a known sensitivity to synthetic polymers should proceed with care.
The ingredient is made entirely from laboratory produced raw materials, with no animal derived components, making it suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. Still, final product formulas can vary so ethical consumers should double-check the full ingredient list and brand claims.
Current safety data show no known risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Polyurethane-12 is applied topically at cosmetic concentrations, yet this is not medical advice. Anyone expecting or nursing should discuss all skincare products with a qualified healthcare provider to be safe.
Polyurethane-12 does not cause photosensitivity. It will not make skin more prone to sunburn though daily sunscreen use is still important for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to topical Polyurethane-12 can vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues, but most users will not experience them if the ingredient has been formulated and used correctly.
- Mild skin irritation – rare itching or redness in individuals highly sensitive to synthetic polymers
- Contact dermatitis – isolated cases of localized rash if the skin develops an allergy to the polymer or a residual monomer
- Eye discomfort – possible stinging or watering if the ingredient gets into the eyes from mascara or eyeliner
- Build-up on hair – a slight film can accumulate with repeated use in styling products leading to dullness until washed out
If any undesirable reaction occurs discontinue use and seek medical advice if symptoms persist or worsen.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0/5. Polyurethane-12 is considered non-comedogenic because its molecules are very large and sit on top of the skin as a porous film rather than sinking into pores or mixing with sebum. It does not supply oils or waxes that could block follicles, and it stays flexible so it is unlikely to create an occlusive seal. For these reasons it is generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Because the polymer is inert it usually does not interact with other pore-clogging ingredients already on the skin, though overall formula composition still matters.
Summary
Polyurethane-12 acts mainly as a binder and film former, keeping pigments evenly suspended while leaving a thin breathable layer that boosts wear time, smudge resistance and a smooth feel. It is a go-to in long-wear makeup, peel-off masks and flexible hold hair products, yet it is not as famous as silicones or acrylates so it shows up most often in performance-driven or prestige formulas rather than every drugstore item. Safety testing and decades of cosmetic use show a very low risk of irritation or pore clogging, though every skin is unique. When adding any new product containing Polyurethane-12 it is smart to patch test first to confirm your skin stays happy.