What Is Polyurethane-14?
Polyurethane-14 is a synthetic polymer created by reacting isophorone diisocyanate, dimethylol propionic acid and 4,4′-isopropylidenediphenol with propylene oxide, ethylene oxide and a PEG/PPG-17/3 copolymer. The result is a flexible, water-dispersible resin that can form clear, lightweight films on skin and hair. Polyurethanes were first explored in the 1930s for industrial coatings and foams. Cosmetic chemists later noticed that certain polyurethane structures delivered a smooth, breathable finish desirable in beauty products. By adjusting the building blocks and adding hydrophilic segments, manufacturers produced versions like Polyurethane-14 that mix well with water-based formulas and feel comfortable on the body.
Production starts with carefully metered reactions of the diisocyanate and diol components to create a prepolymer. Propylene oxide and ethylene oxide chains are then grafted on, followed by the PEG/PPG copolymer that boosts flexibility and solubility. The final material is neutralized to form a stable dispersion used by cosmetic labs.
You will most often see Polyurethane-14 in flexible hold hair sprays, styling creams, long-wear makeup, tinted moisturizers, waterproof masques and transfer-resistant sunscreens where a thin controlling film is essential.
Polyurethane-14’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient offers two main functions that improve the performance and feel of personal care products:
- Film forming: Creates an invisible shield that locks pigments, active ingredients or styling polymers in place. This boosts wear time, water resistance and color payoff while still allowing skin and hair to breathe
- Hair conditioning: Deposits a smooth coating along the hair shaft that reduces frizz, increases shine and provides light, flexible hold without stiffness or build-up
Who Can Use Polyurethane-14
Because Polyurethane-14 dries to a lightweight, breathable film, it is generally well tolerated by all skin types including oily, dry, combination and sensitive. Those with very reactive or allergy-prone skin should still pay attention to how their skin feels, as the polymer contains urethane links that a small number of people may find irritating.
The ingredient is made entirely from synthetic sources and contains no animal-derived materials, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data indicate no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when Polyurethane-14 is used in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetics. This is not medical advice; anyone who is expecting or nursing should review their full routine with a healthcare professional to be extra sure.
Polyurethane-14 does not increase photosensitivity and has no known interaction with UV light. It can actually help keep sunscreen ingredients in place by forming a cohesive film, which may indirectly support sun protection.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Polyurethane-14 vary from person to person. The following list covers potential side effects that could occur, but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild redness or itching on sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitised to urethane chemistry
- Temporary eye irritation if aerosolised product drifts into the eyes
- Build-up on hair strands leading to dullness or limp feel when used in excess without proper cleansing
- Clogged follicles and small surface bumps on very acne-prone skin when layered with heavy occlusives
If any discomfort or visible reaction occurs, stop using the product and seek medical guidance if symptoms persist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Polyurethane-14 dries to a thin breathable film that sits on top of skin rather than sinking deeply into pores. Its molecules are large and mainly water dispersible, so they are unlikely to mix with skin oil or harden inside follicles. For that reason formulators consider it very low on the clogging scale.
Most people prone to acne can use products containing Polyurethane-14 without extra concern, though they should still keep an eye on how the full formula feels on their skin.
Note that very heavy styling sprays or long-wear makeup may pair Polyurethane-14 with waxes or silicones that raise the overall comedogenic load, so the end product matters as much as the single ingredient.
Summary
Polyurethane-14 is mainly used to form clear flexible films that lock pigments and actives in place and to smooth and condition hair for light hold and shine. It does this by creating a water friendly polymer network that clings evenly to skin or strands yet remains comfortable and breathable.
The ingredient is not a household name but it appears in a steady stream of long-wear makeup, hair sprays and sport sunscreens because it delivers reliable performance without a heavy feel.
Current safety data show a low risk of irritation or pore blockage when Polyurethane-14 is formulated correctly, making it a safe choice for most users. As with any new cosmetic we suggest a quick patch test first to be sure it agrees with your individual skin.