What Is Polyurethane-28?
Polyurethane-28 is a modern hybrid polymer created by reacting bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, a silicone that loves both oil and water, with isophorone diisocyanate and the fatty acid ester sorbitan isostearate. The result is a flexible, water-dispersible polyurethane that blends the silky slip of silicone with the conditioning feel of fatty acids. Chemists first explored these silicone-urethane networks in the late 1990s for hair-care films, and the beauty industry soon noticed that the same chemistry could quietly cleanse skin and keep lotions from splitting. To manufacture Polyurethane-28, its three starting materials are combined under carefully controlled heat and pH so the isocyanate groups link the silicone and sorbitan segments into a long, repeating chain. Once the reaction reaches the right molecular weight, the mixture is neutralized, purified and either dried to a powder or left as a viscous liquid for ease of formulating. You will most often find this ingredient in rinse-off cleansers like micellar waters, cream face washes, mild shampoos and body washes. It also appears in leave-on moisturizers, lightweight anti-aging serums, sheet masks and makeup removers where stable oil-in-water textures matter.
Polyurethane-28’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators reach for Polyurethane-28 because it quietly performs more than one job at once, saving space on the ingredient list.
- Cleansing: The polymer’s silicone segment grabs oil while its hydrophilic parts cling to water, lifting dirt, sunscreen and makeup so they rinse away without the harshness often linked to sulfates. This makes it ideal for gentle daily cleansers and baby products.
- Emulsifying: Polyurethane-28 stabilizes oil-in-water blends, stopping creams, serums or washes from separating during storage. A stable emulsion feels smoother, lasts longer on the shelf and delivers active ingredients more evenly across the skin.
Who Can Use Polyurethane-28
Because it is non-stripping and free of sulfates, Polyurethane-28 suits most skin types including dry, normal, oily and combination skin. Its lightweight film does not trap excessive oil so acne-prone users usually tolerate it, though extremely sensitive or allergy-prone individuals should still monitor for any discomfort.
The polymer is made from synthetic silicone, isophorone diisocyanate and a plant-derived ester, none of which come from animals, so products featuring Polyurethane-28 are generally acceptable for vegans and vegetarians unless other animal ingredients are added to the formula.
No specific warnings exist for pregnancy or breastfeeding. The ingredient is used at low levels and is not known to penetrate deeply, yet this is not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any cosmetic product to a healthcare provider before using it, just to be safe.
Polyurethane-28 does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and there are no known interactions with common photoactive treatments, so no extra sun precautions are required beyond a daily SPF.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Polyurethane-28 differ from person to person. The issues below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is used correctly by the manufacturer.
- Mild skin irritation
- Redness or itching in people with silicone or isocyanate sensitivities
- Eye stinging if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Build-up on hair leading to a weighed-down feel when used in leave-on hair products without proper cleansing
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis
If any of these effects occur stop using the product and consult a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Polyurethane-28 scores a 1 on the 0-5 comedogenic scale. Its large polymer size keeps it on the surface of the skin, and because the silicone part is water-dispersible it tends to rinse away rather than settle into pores. There is a small chance it could trap oil if layered under heavy creams, which is why it does not earn a perfect 0. Overall this ingredient is considered safe for people who break out easily and is unlikely to trigger new blemishes.
Comedogenicity can vary with the full formula, so the final product’s feel and the presence of thick butters or waxes matter more than Polyurethane-28 itself.
Summary
Polyurethane-28 cleanses by grabbing oil with its silicone side while clinging to water with its hydrophilic side, helping dirt and makeup wash away gently. At the same time it stabilizes oil-in-water mixtures, keeping creams and washes smooth and uniform. These dual talents let brands cut back on harsher surfactants and extra emulsifiers.
Though not a headline ingredient like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide, it appears quietly in many modern cleansers, micellar waters and light lotions because it simplifies formulas and improves texture without adding weight.
Current data suggests Polyurethane-28 is low risk for irritation, non-sensitizing in most users and almost non-comedogenic. As with any new product it is wise to perform a quick patch test to make sure your skin agrees with the full formula.