What Is Polyurethane-44?
Polyurethane-44 is a man-made polymer created by linking together several building blocks, including hexanedioic acid, hexamethylene diisocyanate, trimethylolpropane, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol and caprolactone. When these components react they form a flexible yet stable network that behaves a lot like a lightweight plastic film. Chemists first explored this style of polymer in the 1970s for industrial coatings, then discovered its smooth feel and film-forming abilities also worked well in personal care. Today cosmetic-grade Polyurethane-44 is produced in controlled reactors where the raw monomers are blended, heated and allowed to bond until the desired molecular weight and viscosity are reached. After purification the finished polymer is supplied as a fine powder or dispersion that is easy to mix into creams, sprays and powders. You will most often spot it in pressed powders, loose setting powders, dry shampoo, mattifying primers, certain face masks and long-wear makeup that call for a silky finish and good flow.
Polyurethane-44’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient mainly improves the texture and performance of beauty products.
- Anticaking – Helps keep powdered formulas from clumping so they sprinkle or brush on smoothly, giving an even layer without patchiness
- Bulking – Adds body to a formula, allowing manufacturers to achieve the desired volume and feel without affecting color or active ingredient levels, which can make a product easier to apply and more cost-effective
Who Can Use Polyurethane-44
Polyurethane-44 is considered gentle enough for most skin types including oily, combination, normal and dry skin because it sits on the surface creating a soft film rather than sinking deep into pores. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it as well, though anyone with a known allergy to polyurethane materials should avoid it.
The polymer is synthesized entirely from laboratory made chemicals, with no animal derived raw materials, so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data shows no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when Polyurethane-44 is applied to intact skin, but this is not medical advice. Expectant or nursing mothers should still check with their healthcare provider before adding any new cosmetic product to their routine, just to be safe.
Polyurethane-44 does not absorb UV light and is not known to make skin more sensitive to the sun, so no additional photosensitivity concerns are expected. Because it forms a breathable film, it may even help keep makeup in place during outdoor wear without affecting SPF in the rest of the formula.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Polyurethane-44 vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects only, not the typical experience. When used correctly by formulators most people will not notice any problems.
- Mild skin irritation in those who are allergic to polyurethane compounds
- Redness or itching if applied to already damaged or broken skin
- Eye irritation if loose powder accidentally gets into the eyes
- Transient respiratory discomfort when large amounts of airborne powder are inhaled during application
If any discomfort, redness or breathing difficulty occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Polyurethane-44 is a large, inert polymer that stays on the skin surface rather than soaking into pores, and it has no oily or waxy components that would normally clog follicles. Because it mainly forms a thin breathable film, it is very unlikely to trigger blackheads or whiteheads. This makes it generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. If anything, the smooth film can help makeup glide on without needing heavier pore-blocking ingredients. No special interactions with common acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid have been reported.
Summary
Polyurethane-44 acts as an anticaking and bulking agent, giving powders and creams a silky feel, preventing clumps and boosting volume so formulas spread evenly. It performs these jobs by forming a lightweight plastic-like mesh that separates particles and adds structure without changing color or active levels.
Although not as famous as hyaluronic acid or glycerin, this polymer has a steady presence in modern long-wear makeup, dry shampoos and finishing powders because it quietly improves texture and wear time at low cost.
Safety reviews find it non-sensitizing and non-comedogenic for most users. Still, every skin is different so do a quick patch test when trying any new product that lists Polyurethane-44 to make sure it agrees with you.